|Original:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Sam Stephens on Mar 21, 2010|
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By P. Sully
Jan 15, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
The gear in the chimney is not great. Before you get to the roof, you can get a decent #0 purple TCU in the right wall.
you can get good cams in the roof but it has a hollow sound. I always put on in each side of the big detached block that forms the roof before I exit.
Fun route to TR but a bit spooky for a 5.7 leader.
By Jay Shultis
From: Oneonta, NY
Jul 29, 2014
|+1 on Paul's comments, a #4 cam is very comforting going around the block exiting the chimney section. Great climb and though the gear is not all perfect there is a lot more of it than I was expecting and the climbing is very secure. A great lead!|