Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ray Jardine
Page Views: 23,129 total · 82/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


213 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Closure Notice DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23 DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is one of the best routes at Lumpy Ridge, and the Fat City-Cheap Date link-up is among the best 5.10 outings in Colorado. Take the trail to the Book, and just before you reach the rock, take the left branch. Fat City starts just left of the giant, landmark Howling at the Wind dihedral. You're aiming for the apex of the long roof band left of the dihedral.

P1. Climb a left-leaning crack that starts as a seam a few feet left of the giant corner, but turns into a finger & hand crack (not to be confused with the first pitch of Perelandra, a left-leaning crack that remains thin). Belay at bolts after ~105 feet (you can just barely get down from here with a 60 meter rope).

P2. Continue up the crack, which turns into 5.10a seam (micro gear), hand traverse left to a slot, climb that (good bolt and/or #3 Camalot), and grovel over the awkward roof where a good crack passes through the apex (crux). Belay at a stance just above.

P3. Lieback up the right-leaning system, stepping right when things appear harder than 5.9. Get to the "Cave", the standard exit for climbs on the right side of The Book.

P4. Do that (5.8) or, better, finish with Cheap Date and Outlander for a fantastic, sustained 5.10 climb.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack to a #3.5 Friend; micro-nuts are handy for the P2 seam.

Photos

loading