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The Shark's Fin
Routes Sorted
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Coral Sea Adventure S 
East Face S 
Fat Black Mama S 
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Shark's Fin Arete S 
Unknown Boulder Problem 

Fat Black Mama 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,190
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Myles night climbing

Description 

Climb the left side of the North Face past 7 bolts. The 5.11c section can be avoided by moving to the arete at the third bolt, making it 5.11a.

Protection 

Draws.


Photos of Fat Black Mama Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Amy Jo Ness on "Fat Black Mama". Photo b...
Amy Jo Ness on "Fat Black Mama". Photo b...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me finishing up the route.
Me finishing up the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The route
The route
Rock Climbing Photo: Bunny on the Shark's Fin. Alabama Hills - Lone Pin...
Bunny on the Shark's Fin. Alabama Hills - Lone Pin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Myles topping out on the Sharks Fin.
Myles topping out on the Sharks Fin.
Rock Climbing Photo: "Fat Black Mama". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Fat Black Mama". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Fat Black Mama Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Oct 29, 2007

Excellent rock quality considering that of nearby routes. Wonderful route!

[EDIT: I give it 3 stars for the 11c variation that stays right.]
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Mar 2, 2009

I agree with Matt, the rock quality is quite good on this route, especially compared to Pirates on Horseback. The crux, however, seems contrived, since it feels unnatural to grab the arete past the third bolt. Maybe you avoid the crux by STEPPING left, not simply using the holds out left. I don't know. Perhaps I'm mincing moves. In any case, fun climbing all around.
By Phil Esra
Mar 10, 2014

No idea what holds are on route based on the description and comments above. Tried to find an 11c line, but all sequences seemed easier or harder than that. Probably a fun 5.10ish route if you just use the arête whenever you want. Fun easy edges on the second half of the route.
By Adam Kimmerly
Mar 7, 2016

Agree with the comments about rock quality. The true crux, as best I could discern, involves moving right across thin crimps and little feet to a position directly below the 4th bolt where you then pull hard and use some fancy footwork to surmount the bulge out of reach of the arete. The crux sequence is actually quite fun and technical, and not all that contrived once you make the earlier decision to head that way rather than bailing left to the arete. The upper face is cruiser climbing on great holds and good rock.