REI Community
Martin's Tower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fart'n Martin T 
Martin's Shoulder T 

Fart'n Martin 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Marilla Lamb, Roy Suggett, & Mitch Yaggie
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Fall, & Winter
Page Views: 503
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Mar 19, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Roy on lead


The start is meandering which enables you to gain access to gear, albeit a ways off the deck! Start on the wall moving up to traverse way right above the alcove then back left and into the crack for protection. Move up this crack heading left before mantling up to a crack heading right. This will lead you to the col between the summits. A few more moves will get you on top.


In the middle of the west face of the tower just left of the alcove.


Passive = Tricams, Brown especially, Med. nuts
Active = BD .3,.4,.5 and a #1
Runners needed! One 4' runner also. You will find what you need on top.

Photos of Fart'n Martin Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid way through
Mid way through
Rock Climbing Photo: The FA rack, heavy on the slings
The FA rack, heavy on the slings
Rock Climbing Photo: Marilla on the FA slab
Marilla on the FA slab
Rock Climbing Photo: PG 13 for a reason!
PG 13 for a reason!

Comments on Fart'n Martin Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mitch Y
Mar 22, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

A good and fun route that is on some solid rock. My personal favorite sequence is gaining access to the summit.
By Roy Suggett
Jul 7, 2015

On 7/7/15 (a very unusually cool July day) Phyllie and I summited Martin's Tower. We found that Cullen Kirk had signed the register after free soloing the line and leaving his cleaning tool behind. Anyone know his email? I will send him the tool.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About