Farmington Crag Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: This is the back side(east) of the main house crag...
This crag is a super massive boulder perched on the hill-side between Farmington Canyon and Steed Canyon. I stumbled upon it one day while hiking a spur trail that leads up to the crag. I do not know who originally developed the crag. As of this writing, it isn't climbed much, so not all of the holds are clean. There were a number of fixed anchors installed all around the top of the crag. One of the older-style fixed anchors was installed on a boulder precariously perched on the edge of the top of the crag. This boulder appears to be set quite well, but use it at your own risk. We have since installed additional anchors and bolts where needed for our own additional routes.
The Farmington Crag refers collectively to the main crag and the island crags surrounding it. Currently there are no trails and so it's a bit bush-wacky. Be very careful of rock fall! While hiking near the long-wall crag East of the main crag yesterday, I dislodged a massive boulder that went thundering down the hill-side! Seeing it make such destruction as it hurdled down the slope was a sobering reminder of how bad things can go wrong when they do go wrong.
Get on E 200 S in Farmington and follow it East until you find a dirt road. Park somewhere and hike East up to the fire-break road. Directly across from the fire-break road, you'll find a trail that heads North to Flag Rock. Well before reaching Flag Rock, find the spur trail that heads East to the crag.
Weather station 0.7 miles from here
13 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Farmington Crag
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Farmington Crag:
Featured Route For Farmington Crag
Cool Air 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Utah
: Wasatch Range
: Farmington Crag
I gave this 3 stars, because you get a great sense of exposure on this climb as it angles out over an over-hanging arete. It's a mixed route. You need trad-gear and there are two bolts to clip on the way up. I belayed Ryan Lauck as he on-sighted the climb as a trad-lead. I've only top-roped it. The top anchors are easily accessible by hiking to the top of the crag, though I recommend putting yourself on belay before approaching the top-anchors. Do not mistaken the top-anchors for Batman Su...[more] Browse More Classics in Utah
View from the approach/descent. This is the west b...
By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 10, 2010
I actually like this area. It has a lot of potential, that being said be prepared for a long hike. We are working on the trail to make it better. Watch for rattlesnakes also, i nearly stepped on one making our way back in the dark. Ryan said that he thinks the place would be a good winter destination. I think he is right, it gets the sun all day. Cheers
May 8, 2011
What a great hiddin gem right in the back yard of Framington. I feel that its is really well protected all the way around the top. the bottom belay areas still need a little tlc but a fun wall never the lease. It would be nice to know which one was which.
By Penny L
From: Farmington, UT
Jul 25, 2016
The views are great and great for photo ops. The belay areas are steep on the east side, but are manageable and make for a great shaded area in the summer. As dusk nears be prepared to see the deer start to move around and feed. The hike is long, even if you begin from Bonneville Shoreline, and the rocks get steep nearer the crag, so be careful. Probably due to this, I haven't seen anyone else up there when I have gone.