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Farmington Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
137 lbs of Fury T 
Basket Case TR 
Batman Surprise TR 
Butt Crack T 
Cool Air T,TR 
Era of Tara, The T 
Every woman has her charm. TR 
Humble Beginnings T 
Klingon Arete TR 
Nano Pitch TR 
Repent Now or Die TR 
Ryan in a Bikini T,S 
Suck it Up Princess S 
Unsorted Routes:

Farmington Crag Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.9805, -111.8715 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,898
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on May 22, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: This is the back side(east) of the main house crag...


This crag is a super massive boulder perched on the hill-side between Farmington Canyon and Steed Canyon. I stumbled upon it one day while hiking a spur trail that leads up to the crag. I do not know who originally developed the crag. As of this writing, it isn't climbed much, so not all of the holds are clean. There were a number of fixed anchors installed all around the top of the crag. One of the older-style fixed anchors was installed on a boulder precariously perched on the edge of the top of the crag. This boulder appears to be set quite well, but use it at your own risk. We have since installed additional anchors and bolts where needed for our own additional routes.

The Farmington Crag refers collectively to the main crag and the island crags surrounding it. Currently there are no trails and so it's a bit bush-wacky. Be very careful of rock fall! While hiking near the long-wall crag East of the main crag yesterday, I dislodged a massive boulder that went thundering down the hill-side! Seeing it make such destruction as it hurdled down the slope was a sobering reminder of how bad things can go wrong when they do go wrong.

Getting There 

Get on E 200 S in Farmington and follow it East until you find a dirt road. Park somewhere and hike East up to the fire-break road. Directly across from the fire-break road, you'll find a trail that heads North to Flag Rock. Well before reaching Flag Rock, find the spur trail that heads East to the crag.

Climbing Season

For the Wasatch Range area.

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Farmington Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Farmington Crag:
137 lbs of Fury   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Ryan in a Bikini   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Farmington Crag

Featured Route For Farmington Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Suck it up Princess.

Suck it Up Princess 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c  Utah : Wasatch Range : Farmington Crag
Enjoy the shade ...and stop whining about the approach.Follows a line of good jugs and incut edges up a slightly overhanging pillar of solid quartzite. Work your way through the techy start past the first two bolts. Hug the pillar as the grade hits the steeper crux and trust that more big holds await to help clip the third bolt. There is an intrusion of quartz near the top that looks chossy from the ground but is some of the best rock and sports cool knobs....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Farmington Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail that goes up to the crag
BETA PHOTO: Trail that goes up to the crag
Rock Climbing Photo: View from the approach/descent. This is the west b...
View from the approach/descent. This is the west b...

Comments on Farmington Crag Add Comment
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By Erik S. Gillis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 10, 2010
I actually like this area. It has a lot of potential, that being said be prepared for a long hike. We are working on the trail to make it better. Watch for rattlesnakes also, i nearly stepped on one making our way back in the dark. Ryan said that he thinks the place would be a good winter destination. I think he is right, it gets the sun all day. Cheers
By Tren-ton
May 8, 2011
What a great hiddin gem right in the back yard of Framington. I feel that its is really well protected all the way around the top. the bottom belay areas still need a little tlc but a fun wall never the lease. It would be nice to know which one was which.
By Penny L
From: Farmington, UT
Jul 25, 2016
The views are great and great for photo ops. The belay areas are steep on the east side, but are manageable and make for a great shaded area in the summer. As dusk nears be prepared to see the deer start to move around and feed. The hike is long, even if you begin from Bonneville Shoreline, and the rocks get steep nearer the crag, so be careful. Probably due to this, I haven't seen anyone else up there when I have gone.

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