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Farmington Canyon

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Butt Crack Buttress 

Farmington Canyon  Rock Climbing 

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Location: 41.00338, -111.87363 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,408
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: oliver on Oct 18, 2010
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: View from farther east where you park.


This is the Canyon Right above Farmington. Most of the rock is pretty unstable and rotten, however, there are a few great climbs and a couple of spots that are being developed.

Getting There 

Take I15 to farmington and follow main street to Farmington Pond/Canyon.

Climbing Season

For the Wasatch Range area.

Weather station 1.5 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Farmington Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Farmington Canyon :
Stinky Knuckles   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Butt Crack Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Farmington Canyon

Featured Route For Farmington Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Dirty Virgin

Dirty Virgin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Butt Crack Buttress
This has been bolted later then the two other climbs on the crag. It's got some fun moves at the bottom that pull around a small roof. It's pretty reachy till you pull around the roof. You can go over the roof which would make for a much harder climb or you can pull around it for the 5.9 rating. From there it's gets a little balancey and thinner. Fun but short climb....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of Farmington Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: butcrack butress
BETA PHOTO: butcrack butress

Comments on Farmington Canyon Add Comment
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By RockChuckCharlie
Mar 18, 2013
GPS at 41N 11.5245W for the entrance to the canyon. (according to Google Earth)
By Max Hansen
Jun 18, 2014
Whoever has been bolting in this canyon, would you please email me ( I do not want to impede on "staked territory" but am interested in a piece of rock and would like to talk before I proceed.
By Krista Jensen
May 24, 2016
I have been bolting and free soloing this canyon since 2000, though I started [originally] with rebar (on what's apparently called butt crack buttress) as my resources were limited as a teen, and my climbing wasn't supported by my parents, I was lucky enough to have rope...rebar was the easiest thing for me to get. I have tried using as few permanent anchors as possible, though that wasn't feasible in all cases.

I love this canyon and all it has to offer. Farmington canyon will always be one of the most important parts of my history.
By Penny L
From: Farmington, UT
Jul 25, 2016
Wear your climbing pants for this rock, it can cut you up a little. Two guys climbing it as we came up both left blood on the rocks, and my partner did too. I always wear pants, so I left unscathed, except for a scraped up knuckle.

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