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Farmers Market 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: M. Tupper
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,495
Submitted By: Zeb Kenyon on Mar 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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at the last bolt before the mantle over


Fun jug haul. The crux is staying on once making the transition after the second bolt to the near horizontal roof. Save some juice for the last few clips.


Far right side of the Turtle Cave closest to the outermost edge.


5 bolts to chains. (Chains look a little loose).

Photos of Farmers Market Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep clip.
Steep clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy Steck on Farmers Market.
Jeremy Steck on Farmers Market.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clip me if you can.
Clip me if you can.

Comments on Farmers Market Add Comment
Show which comments
By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 1, 2009

really fun route ! after the last bolt getting to chains is so scary !!!! maybe only 5.6 stemming but if you fell, oh man. Has this route been done without stemming to the other side of cave ?
By redstone
Dec 20, 2009

I believe the last bolt is missing which makes it a bit more of a head game, but i have seen it finished without stemming.
By Taylor Apple
Jun 26, 2013

are you supposed to stem at the top, or is the route made to not stem?
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Oct 5, 2013

The chains have recently been replaced and our now excellent. The top bolt was also replaced by a Petzl glue-in and is much better. Fun route.
By phxDarren
Oct 20, 2013

This route is super fun. The holds get better and better as you climb, just keep going. The hangers toward the bottom spin but I saw a couple climbers take top rope falls on them.

Video of Farmer's Market
By Jake Croft
From: Tucson, Az
Apr 1, 2014

Amazing route, one of my favorite for its grade. As of march 31 2014 the third bolt appeared to be pretty loose, if it ripped you would likely take a ground fall so don't lead this unless you're comfortable with 11c. I'm not a local so I won't be around to replace this, it would be awesome if somebody checked that out and replaced it- until then this is a spicy lead. Was very relieved to clip the new glue in. Beautiful route, fun jug pulling, would highly reccomend
By David Adams
Jul 23, 2014

Went out today and checked the bolt out. It was indeed half pulled out of the hole and spinning. Pulled the old one and replaced it with one of the new climbtech legacy bolts so it should be good to go for a long time. Totally safe and super fun so go out and get it.
By jeffozozo
From: santa clara, utah
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This climb feels like a gym climb. The movement is so cool, it is almost as if it was planned. The protection is good, and yes you CAN do it without stemming on the other side, but it is so much fun to straddle that gap...
By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Crux to me was getting to the chains. Was thin, sandy, and full of bad slopers. Didn't do the stem, but partner did and it seemed easier. Very fun moves, great route.

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