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God Is Love Boulder
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Black Roughy aka God Is Love 
Dove, The 
Farewell To Flesh 

Farewell To Flesh 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Greg Parker
Page Views: 275
Submitted By: Greg Parker on Jan 14, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: The "Black Roughy" Boulder on the Southe...

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Description 

You better have your calluses built up before getting on this one. Small, sharp crimpers = fun!This problem starts standing up about 15 feet to the right of Black Roughy. Grab two obvious, small crimpers, pull up to another left hand crimp and make a hard move to a slanting, sharp crimp with the right hand. Now, stand up HARD and go right hand again to a good, but akwardly positioned right slanting rail that's up and right. When you do the throw to the rail, your left foot and left hand cut loose and you about barndoor off. The last move makes it worth suffering the painful crimp. Could have a sit start.You can see the chalky starting holds in the picture, to the right of the birch tree.

Protection 

Pad and a spotter


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