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Farewell to Arms 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Karl Hammer, John Hoffman, 1976.
Page Views: 5,563
Submitted By: Blitzo on Nov 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (114)
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Angie Price @ crux. Thin hands/loose fingers for s...

Seasonal Raptor Closure at Black Wall-Lifted 2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the pumper crack on the left of the East Face. It leans slightly left.

Protection 

Pro to 3"


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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

Don't miss this if you like steep hand cracks!
By Tyler Logan
From: Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Fitting name. It definitely gets pumpy towards the end!
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 8, 2009

Great description Blitzo. This climb is not to be missed!
By BruceB
From: Reno, NV
Jul 4, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I found the crux (upper finger crack) really tough to lead through. It takes pro well, but stopping to place it saps all your strength. The crack is rounded over and off-finger so it's hard to get good finger locks.
Strenuous for sure!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Mar 2, 2015

I remember doing this about 1996, at a time when I boasted, "I can onsight any 5.10 finger crack." Shortly thereafter I retreated from FTA and let my friend KC Baum finish if for me. I barely followed on TR. Embarrassed. Then assumed it was the altitude. Then realized that I lived at pretty much the same altitude. Then realized it was pure hubris. Never said anything like that again. Great route. Get on it. Speak softly.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 13, 2015

Nicely played Peter. Man up to your humility.

The start requires some muscle to pull through. Then I seemed to find "good enough" rest spots throughout until the end. The last 10 feet or so to the anchors are definitely the crux. Here the rock felt quite "slippery".
By Gordy Ainsleigh
From: Auburn, California
Aug 11, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a fabulous climb! It's about a 5.9 until you get to the left-arching crack/flake, which I have always done as a layback, foregoing protection once I hit the layback. That part of the climb is thrillingly muscular, and you just have to keep moving. The holds get better and better at exactly the rate that your grip gets weaker and weaker, so you arrive at the top with grip muscles totally spent, almost unable to hold onto bomber holds. If you haven't done this as a layback, you've missed half the fun. It's a long fall if you come off, but there's nothing to hit, and you'll either get an air catch or a maneageable landing at the bottom. Kudos to the guy who named this route. I'm thinking he did it as a layback.
Loved Peter Lewis' comment.

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