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b. Gelsa to Moe (closure)
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Elder Cleavage Direct T 
Eraserhead T,TR 
Farewell to Arms T 
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To Be Or Not To Be T 
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Farewell to Arms 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Al DeMaria, 1960
Page Views: 4,012
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (86)
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BETA PHOTO: great 5.8


An exciting route.

Start at the same place as Bird Cage, at a huge corner.

P1: Climb 15' up the corner and traverse left. Although not the hardest part of the pitch, this is definitely challenging to lead, and spicier for both leader and second than guidebooks may describe now (2013) that a piton has gone to dust. 9/2016 update: the piton has returned. 3/2017: pin gone.

After traversing about 15', climb corners up to an overhang. Pass this on the left to a ledge and a rap anchor. This anchor is often used to TR the hard routes to the left. 5.8, 90'.

Although short, there is a lot of climbing on this pitch.


Standard Gunks rack

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By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Jul 18, 2010

This climb has a lot of variety in one pretty short pitch. It starts off with a fun corner, to a spicy traverse (well protected, or used to be - JSH) and then moves into an organge corner/dihedral. The moves in the dihedral are technical and fun and then it's a jug haul out of the corner and up to the chains. Lots of fun.
By kenr
Apr 11, 2013

Sustained and exciting, lots of moves around 7 and 8 which are not like typical Gunks face moves (and nothing like indoor moves). The traverse seemed to actually go downwards a bit from right to left. The first move into the traverse is pretty exciting (and you might get banged up if you fall there), but perhaps not fully 8 in difficulty once you work it out carefully.

The key is not to freak out in the sustained corner section above after the traverse. There are lots of moves requiring thought -- and the pro is not necessarily easy to place. It's not a climb to be trying if you're in a hurry, and it helps to have lots of previous experience with a variety of Gunks rock situations.
By Pawel Janowski
From: WA
Apr 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Incredible variety on such a short pitch. You can protect the first scary move by placing a piece high in the inside corner and extending with a long sling.

Once you grab the horizontal beneath the roof it's all easy jugs but don't forget to protect the second as you move out left.
By mattc81
May 22, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is probably pg13 now that the piton in the traverse is gone. If you fall you're going to swing into the corner pretty hard. If your second falls, they will also swing. So it's not a good route for beginning followers. It might be protectable with a purple or gray c3 or black alien, though I didn't have them on me when last I led it.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 10, 2014

There used to be a pin in the traverse. Sadly it's gone.
By Gunkiemike
Jul 2, 2014

Preserve rules allow for the pin to be replaced. Anyone know what it was?
By gtluke
Sep 28, 2015

It would have to be a knife blade piton. It's also what I was told it was by a local.
By Phredward
From: Brooklyn, NY
Sep 21, 2016

As of September 2016 there is a shiny, new piton back in at the start of the traverse.
By chris_vultaggio
From: The Gunks
Mar 8, 2017

as of 3/17 traverse piton is gone.
By Christopher Woodall
From: Somerville, MA
3 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

As of 9/17 the piton is back.

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