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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
5.8 TR 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Death to the Right T 
Far aka Let's Climb Naked S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Feelin' Your Oats T 
Forrester's Crack T 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Livin' on a Prayer S 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
War Party S,TR 

Far Side Chimney 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,531
Submitted By: Floyd Hayes on Mar 11, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Stuck between a rock and a hard place on the Far S...


Climb the squeeze chimney just right of Saviour Heart and left of New Tradition, and finish on the upper face of New Tradition. It's easier than it looks, with great holds and good gear placements for protection.


Starts in the corner right of Saviour Heart and left of New Tradition.


A sling on top of the chockstone to protect the first move; a few small cams and a large cam or two for the chimney section; 2 quick draws for the last 2 bolts (or a few small to medium cams if you wish to use trad gear only) of New Tradition.

Photos of Far Side Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Floyd Hayes leading Far Side Chimney 5.6 on 10 Mar...
Floyd Hayes leading Far Side Chimney 5.6 on 10 Mar...

Comments on Far Side Chimney Add Comment
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By Floyd Hayes
Mar 20, 2013

How did this gem of a trad climb get overlooked in previous books and online climbing sites? I first led it onsight on March 10, 2013, but surely somebody else must have climbed it earlier.
By splitclimber
May 14, 2013

Nice Floyd. You're sqeezing out all the juice from these crags. I like it.

Can also TR the face to the left, maybe 10a/b

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