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Meat Puppet Crag
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Beelzebubba T,TR 
Far Right Line T 
Head Like a Hole T,TR 
Howlin' Yowlin' T,TR 
Meat Puppet T,TR 
Undercover Lover T,TR 

Far Right Line 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Aquamatt on Jun 13, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: This a view of the general line to be followed.

Description 

The route starts at the far right end of the meat puppet crag, at the point where the roof is close enough to the ground that you can reach it. There is a potential boulder problem (which looks like it has been done before) on the underside of the start. You can either pull up and do some bouldery moves to begin the climb, or you can keep the grade at 5.7 by scrambling up a boulder on the right and traversing left on a good ledge for hands. Continue up straight, searching for good pro, until you hit the lichen and then decide how you want to get to the ledge with a small pine tree and some loose logs where you can build an anchor.

The more challenging part of this climb is within the first 20 feet, then it gets pretty easy and licheny. Easy to walk off or continue to the summit area from the top.

Location 

Far right end of the meat puppet crag. Follow the path at the base of head like a hole right until just before the cliffs stop completely. You will walk underneath some very large and intimidating roofs. Look for a couple of good holds up high that you can pull on where the roof is low enough.

Protection 

Lots of good gear. Bring a standard rack. Many options for anchors once the ledge is reached.


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By Neil Rankin
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jun 14, 2017

I appreciate the beta but this has almost certainly been climbed before. I would not name or claim a first ascent.

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