REI Community
Eagle Rock
Select Route:
Far Left S,TR 

Far Left 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 2 pitches, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,257
Submitted By: Tristan Burnham on Oct 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
On the way down


This is the far left route where the only anchors we saw were at. The route is pretty clean. watch for small rocks to break, all the big holds were solid. There was some chossy dirt to the right for most of the route. There are 2 little vertical sections you have to pull over and up back to the slabby part and these felt like 5.8 moves. There are also some reachy moves and lots of mantles and hand foot matches because I used the bigger holds and avoided the small ones that could pop. But most of the climbing is fun 5.6 moves.


The route is on the far left. Belay behind the trees so you don't get hit by rocks.


8 bolts to the top, it's a little runout between bolts Since it is over 120 feet there's a belay station 1/2 way up to rap down from the top w/ 1 60 m rope. A 70 m might make it all the way down from the top anchors.

Photos of Far Left Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 8 bolts to the top. Or you can do it in 2 pitches.
BETA PHOTO: 8 bolts to the top. Or you can do it in 2 pitches.
Rock Climbing Photo: bro starting up far left
bro starting up far left
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh about 1/2 way up.
Josh about 1/2 way up.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing over the 134.
Climbing over the 134.
Rock Climbing Photo: Old janky anchor set up. Now there's 2 nice 3/8 bo...
BETA PHOTO: Old janky anchor set up. Now there's 2 nice 3/8 bo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the 4th bolt/midway belay statio...
Looking down from the 4th bolt/midway belay statio...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike 1/2 way up.
Mike 1/2 way up.

Comments on Far Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tristan Burnham
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 24, 2013

I recently bolted this route. I did it a few times on TR and then apartment complex behind Eagle Rock built a big death fence you'd have to climb over. So instead of dealing with that and trespassing I bolted this line. The rock is chossy, but this line is more solid than some stuff at Texas Canyon or Echo Cliffs. I put a belay station in 1/2 way so you can multipitch it for more fun and so you can rap off with 1 60m rope. All the anchors and bolts are bomber 3/8 except for the very last one which is an old rusty 1/4. But I think that bolt was used to TR the route and once you climb past it, it's really easy to get to the anchors.
By TacoDelRio
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Jan 27, 2013

By adam paz
Mar 30, 2015

Tried it and was kinda spooky. Run out but easy. Man you really don't want one of the little nubs to give out of you cause that will cheese grate grind u really bad. A 70m WILL NOT make it to the bottom from the top. Learned the hard way. Had to down climb cause the half way of a 70m is at the rusty bolt and I was not about to lower off that, then use a bail beaner and lower off 1 bolt which was solid but still. Prob would have been ok to go to the the top and get lowered to the belay station but with the FWY noise there was no communication possible so my belayer didn't let me go higher when she reached half way point and I couldn't tell her to go ahead and let me up lower etc.
By Carlos S
From: Corona
Mar 3, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is a fun climb to do at sunset and if you live in the area. You get a cool view of the city from the top.

We did it in one pitch with a 70m rope. Communication becomes nonexistent after the first set of anchors because of all the freeway noise, so be sure to have a game plan before you set off on the climb. The climb itself is very easy with the only "hard" part being getting on the wall. The bolt spacing is pretty far out and might spook some new leaders, but like I said it's an easy climb. The last bolt is sketchy to say the least; clipping it is just lying to yourself. I ran it out. I will say this, be aware of rocks popping off the wall. I almost took a nasty whip because a foothold popped off. Have your belayer wear a helmet.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About