|Type:||Sport, TR, 2 pitches, 120'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Tristan B on Oct 21, 2009|
|Comments on Far Left||Add Comment|
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By Tristan B
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jan 24, 2013
|I recently bolted this route. I did it a few times on TR and then apartment complex behind Eagle Rock built a big death fence you'd have to climb over. So instead of dealing with that and trespassing I bolted this line. The rock is chossy, but this line is more solid than some stuff at Texas Canyon or Echo Cliffs. I put a belay station in 1/2 way so you can multipitch it for more fun and so you can rap off with 1 60m rope. All the anchors and bolts are bomber 3/8 except for the very last one which is an old rusty 1/4. But I think that bolt was used to TR the route and once you climb past it, it's really easy to get to the anchors.|
From: All up in yo bidniss.
Jan 27, 2013
By adam paz
Mar 30, 2015
|Tried it and was kinda spooky. Run out but easy. Man you really don't want one of the little nubs to give out of you cause that will cheese grate grind u really bad. A 70m WILL NOT make it to the bottom from the top. Learned the hard way. Had to down climb cause the half way of a 70m is at the rusty bolt and I was not about to lower off that, then use a bail beaner and lower off 1 bolt which was solid but still. Prob would have been ok to go to the the top and get lowered to the belay station but with the FWY noise there was no communication possible so my belayer didn't let me go higher when she reached half way point and I couldn't tell her to go ahead and let me up lower etc.|
By C Salinas
Mar 3, 2017
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This is a fun climb to do at sunset and if you live in the area. You get a cool view of the city from the top.
We did it in one pitch with a 70m rope. Communication becomes nonexistent after the first set of anchors because of all the freeway noise, so be sure to have a game plan before you set off on the climb. The climb itself is very easy with the only "hard" part being getting on the wall. The bolt spacing is pretty far out and might spook some new leaders, but like I said it's an easy climb. The last bolt is sketchy to say the least; clipping it is just lying to yourself. I ran it out. I will say this, be aware of rocks popping off the wall. I almost took a nasty whip because a foothold popped off. Have your belayer wear a helmet.