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Fapanese Direct 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: M Samet, R Garibotti
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, Summer, Autumn
Page Views: 4,680
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Mar 26, 2008

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Fapanese Direct is the line to the left of the cli...

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  • Description 

    This route was up in in autumn 2007 up the roof-to-headwall right of Earth Angel, on the Tarot Wall. It climbs out the body-length roof via a sort of inset corner before railing left along the lip to head up incipient cracks on the headwall.

    Someone had drilled holes for anchor bolts at the top, but didn't put the bolts in, so we used those. The roof is the business, but the headwall is pumper than it looks -- very sustained for Boulder Canyon and a top-quality line...


    It is ten feet right of Earth Angel, and goes out the body-sized roof in the middle of the left side of the Tarot Wall.


    8 bolts to two-bolt anchors; slings or extendo draws helpful on bolts two and three.

    Comments on Fapanese Direct Add Comment
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    By Micahisaac
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 16, 2008

    Thanks for submitting this route! Still working the roof, this is a pretty stout route.
    By Lon Black
    Sep 28, 2008

    Thanks for putting it up. From the ground, I thought (hoped) the roof would be the business and the upper half would be more mellow. Nope. Spanked me. Nice and sustained. Very nice line.
    By ChanVan Schaack
    Sep 8, 2009
    rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

    Great route!
    By slim
    Aug 16, 2010
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    Can't really comment on the grade, as I didn't get it clean, but the description is very accurate. Cruxy roof (really cruxy getting established above for a non-flexible, semi-weak giraffe), and sustained, pumpy, technical climbing above. This is a really good route that isn't over until you get to the chains. Excellent find by the FA party.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    May 23, 2012
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    This is probably the best route I've done at Avalon, although I haven't tried Earth Angel or anything on the upper tier. I loved the crux roof down low, and the climbing on the upper half is sustained and really good as well. One of the better pitches I've done in Boulder Canyon now that I think about it.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 24, 2014

    Cool roof move to good face climbing in a flaring crack. Overall, pretty good!
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Oct 28, 2014
    rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Wow what a good route. I can't believe it took me so long to finally get on it. A top notch route for Boulder Canyon. The roof felt improbable to me till I had the right beta. I've seen many climbers on this, and everyone does the roof differently. After the roof pull is another cruxy move, but it's nowhere near as hard as the roof. Then awesome sustained 5.11 to the top in one of the best positions in Boulder Canyon. Grade felt right on at 12c/d. I thought it was a touch easier than Earth Angel, only very different style.
    By michalm
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 16, 2017

    No idea how to pull the roof to the crimps. I was a few inches off everytime. Feel free to send me your beta. Everything after was really fun though. From the roof on was super pumpy. I thought I was going to fall the whole way up.
    By Jack Sparrow
    From: denver, co
    Jul 25, 2017
    rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Hey Michalm, it's been a bit since I've been on it, but for the roof, when you get the first bad sloper for right hand, I jack my right knee up and slot in a kneebar next to the right hand sloper. At this point, if you get the knee good, it's a game changer, and you can reach over the lip. I'm fuzzy on specifics, but mess around with the kneebar. It worked very well for me, I thought it made a burly V4 feel V2 if you fit the kneebar.

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