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BETA PHOTO: Looking at Fantasy from the base
The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.
15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.
A second pitch, if you want to top out (usually dirty from runoff) moves up and right from the comfy ledge below the bolted anchor and goes at roughly 5.5.
Quickest way in is to park at the Nuttall lot. Take the trail in and where it forks for the Cirque ladder, go right (downstream) and follow the rim until you reach the clearing with a very distinct tree (there is a picture in the guidebook) where you'll find a pair of rings to rappel in. You'll find yourself staring at the route on your way down. 1 60m barely makes it with stretch.
If you're not into rapping in, take the Cirque ladder in and head downstream until you reach it. This adds about ten minutes or so to the approach.
Takes everything from .5 to 4. You may want multiples in the 1 and 2 sizes. Hexes work good in this too. Bolted anchor at the top of the "first pitch".
This great climb, as I recall, keeps your attentio...
Hutch begins jamming up Fantasy Crack.
By Kyle Hartung
Jun 30, 2016
This route is fun and straight forward - climb up the crack. I thought the crux was actually the first few moves. What do I know...