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Stone Mountain South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anchor Rode T 
Another Alternative T 
Autumn Speaks T,S 
Banana Breath T 
Between The Ways S 
Block Route T 
Blood On The Tracks T 
Bombay Groove aka Yankee Go Home S 
Captain Crunch T 
Closer to the Heart T 
Crystal Lizard T 
Direct Start to Arch T 
Dirty Crack T 
Discipline, The S 
Dixie Crystals T,S 
Dream On T 
Dream Waves T 
Electric Boobs T 
Entrance Crack T 
Face Value T,S 
Fantastic T,S 
Father Knows Best T 
Fleet Feet T 
Fuddy Mucker/Deception Crack - 5.9 T 
Grand Funk Railroad T 
Great Arch, The T 
Great Brown Way T,S 
Great White Way T 
Impossible Dream T 
Mcgrady's route T 
Mercury's Lead T,S 
No Alternative T 
P.F. Flyers T 
Pandora's Way T 
Peer Pressure T 
Pulpit, The T 
Purple Daze T,S 
Purring, The T 
Rainy Day Women T 
Rice Krispies T 
Scimitar S 
Sermon, The T 
Storm in a Teacup S 
Strawberry Preserves T,S 
Taken For Granite T 
Toilet Bowl T,S 
U Slot T 
Wahoo Start T 
White Way Direct T 
WOSL T 
Yardarm T 
Zoo Love T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fantastic 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 470'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Gerald Laws, Buddy Price 1974
Season: Winter, Fall, Spring
Page Views: 3,761
Submitted By: GWB on Jun 20, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Matt getting ready to pull over the bulge on Fanta...

Description 

The name of this route really says it all. A rare beautiful crack that offers some exciting moves over gear. Don't worry though, there is still enough runout slab climbing to prevent you from thinking you are any where else.

Start at the base of the left leaning crack. Climb the crack for about 30 feet then step right onto waves in the rock. Clip 2 bolts on your way out right, then make a step over a bulge and gain ground to the belay. 5.9+, 90'

P2 Start up and head left, locate a bolt and keep moving until you hit a terrace. 5.9 120'

P3 Head up to the second terrace. Can't remember if there is a bolt or not. 5.8 100'

From the belay, continue up for another 160' or so until you are able to reach the trees.

Location 

Scramble your way up and left from the base below the tree ledge. Up about 200 feet or so you'll find a few large flat boulders leaning against the rock allowing you to gain a crack.

Protection 

Start out with finger to slightly larger gear in the crack. You may be able to find some small gear that'll hold in the flakes before the step above the bulge. Then it is bolt(s) to the top.


Photos of Fantastic Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fantastic, 5.9
Fantastic, 5.9
Rock Climbing Photo: Having fun on Fantastic
Having fun on Fantastic

Comments on Fantastic Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Dunbar
From: Charlotte, NC
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Climbed this awesome route yesterday. It was great fun.

Be advised that there are currently two pairs of bolts (one old/manky, and one new/shiny, in each spot) at the P1 and P2 anchors, and the P2 anchor is located way left, at the right end of a huge sloping ledge system that arcs across the top of an equally huge overhung amphitheater below/left of the P1 belay. Don't be fooled by the topo in the NC Select guide, which makes this pitch look shorter and more verical than it really is.

Many thanks to all who contributed to the rebolting of this and so many other great routes at Stone!
By Emil Briggs
Sep 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Beautiful climb. The first pitch is my favorite at Stone. Well protected nearly vertical crack and face at the bottom. Top gets a little spicy with a slab finish over gear in a flake that flexes enough to get your attention.
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Feb 7, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Spectacular and testy line at 5.9, and quite unique for Stone. This route feels a bit more demanding than other 5.9s in the park - while the feet are quite featured, they do feel polished and slick, especially compared to most Stone routes. The upper section demands attention and focus. Ultra Classic!

It's also worth noting P1 is probably longer than the 90' listed. I used every bit of a 70m to rap to the base from the P1 anchors. Knot your rope ends.
By Gee Double
Feb 10, 2017

What is the rightward 5.11 extension of Fantastic ? I can't remember the name but it was unusual and worth recording...

Emil, yea thanks ! Leftward...I on-sighted that in late 70's-early 80's
By Emil Briggs
Apr 4, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

Gee Double do you mean the leftward extension? If you continue following the crack out left instead of heading up over the bulge to the first bolt the climb is called Last Dance 5.11c/X.

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