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1. Bat Cave
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Fang Shui 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jay Foley
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Shirtless Mike on May 30, 2007

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After Stick clipping the first bolt and pulling the start the angle decreases to only mildly steep, but the holds shrink and the climbing gets technical. Pull the first crux involving a long reach of an undercling and head up to the second harder crux. Grab a sharp, painful, awkward pocket, make a hard pull and hit the better holds above. Slightly run-out at the top, but much easier climbing.


Between Path to Enlightenment and the now chopped Guillotine. Look for the Steep route with left angling bolts at the center - right side of the cave.


Bolts to Anchors; Stickclip

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By Bill Ballace
From: Pullman,WA
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Cool route but be aware of loose rock!
By Heath Bailey
Oct 10, 2011

The taller climber (or the climber with bigger fingers) can avoid the heinous cutter pocket by turning a right-hand jug that might not help you otherwise into an upside-down pistol grip, stepping high onto the right face and straightening the arm to gain the good left-hand pocket in the dihedral. A few more more fighting moves, and its a scramble for the anchors! You can count on me for some jingus beta but it works.
By Jfoley
Dec 23, 2013

With the addition of Bill Sprague's new foot beta and a knee bar rest before and after the crux this climb is now confirmed at 12a/b! Also, the heinous "cutter" hold it would seem broke on its left edge. It is now less positive but no more pain!! I think this and the new "foot beta" make this route much more enjoyable!

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