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Fandango 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: George Connor, David Babich, 1978
Page Views: 3,044
Submitted By: Victor on Jul 15, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Looking down from the top of the first pitch of Fa...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First pitch (190ft) goes up a finger crack, then a bit of dike hiking to finish the pitch. Second pitch (150ft) is a bit unclear. The route we took goes up just right of the belay station, then tends towards the dihedral on the left.

Location 

50ft to the west of Psychedelic Tree the trail curves down and right towards the Central Wall. From here stay left along the wall, on a faint trail. This leads to the start of Fandango.

Protection 

Standard Rack to 2.5", nuts, focus on small cams.
Gear anchor (possibly bolts?) for first pitch. Pitons at the top of the route.


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By bone dry cappuccino
Jul 7, 2014

My boyfriend and I just did the route yesterday. Nice route, decent quality rock, no loose blocks and good protection all the way up. We would recommend a double set of small to 2 inch cams, one 2 1/2 inch cam and a double set of nuts. The 2nd pitch wanders a bit, so bring a few double-length slings.

Very good climbing with the caveat that Fandango has the worst top-off of the Leap, and this right next to the spectacular one at Psychedelic Tree. The very last 30 feet before topping out is very dirty, guess this route doesn't see much traffic.

But overall, a very good climb with no lines!
Rock Climbing Photo: The route on the left is Psychedelic Tree, the one...
The route on the left is Psychedelic Tree, the one on the right is Fandango.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Dec 29, 2015

I always thought Fandango had a pretty cool top out. That weirdly textured slab followed by the awkward corner thing to an excellent (although sandy) ledge to belay from. The corner has some grass, but nothing horrible.

The worst top out at the leap is on the North Face route. Miles of rotten low angle rock, sand and lichen capped with an almost impenetrable wall of bushes and no anchor. You just burrow your way down in the bushes and hold on.
By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
May 25, 2016

Is this the route that people use as a rappel route (since that descent is so brutal)? I vaguely remember doing the first pitch, which I thought was quite good, and while belaying the second, having a guy rappel over me (knocking off a couple small rocks and dirt down with him). I mentioned that next time he might want to verify that someone wasn't climbing the route before he went to rappel it, and he informed me that he was linking a bunch of routes on the Main Wall and didn't have time for the descent. D-bag.
By RonC
From: Roseville, CA
Aug 28, 2016

Climbed route yesterday. On the approach, we got buzzed by a rattlesnake in the brush. Heeded the warning and stepped around. Agree with bone dry cappuccino comments on gear selection.
1st pitch is ~190ft and sustained 5.9. We thought it was more difficult than Psychedelic Tree, just left of this climb, which we climbed first. 2nd pitch does wander a bit, has loose rock and vegetation that you can navigate through, protects reasonably well, and angles up right corner to the top just below tree stump you can see at very top of climb. 1st pitch belay shares same ledge system as Psych Tree which you can traverse over to and may be a better top out to consider. An adventurous climb overall.
By Connor Newman
From: Reno, NV
Sep 11, 2016

I'd recommend wearing a helmet at the base of this one. While belaying my leader the rope knocked loose a baseball sized rock from about 100 ft up that hit within a foot of me. You don't have much room to try and jump out of the way either with that small ledge.
By Michael Dom
Sep 17, 2016

The first pitch was good but the second is the worst pitch I have been on at the Leap.