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a1. The Uberfall - left
Routes Sorted
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69 T 
Apoplexy T 
Birthday Biscuit Boy T 
Black Fly T 
Brat Direct, The T 
Bridal Path T 
Bunny T 
Cordelette Arete T 
Coronary T,TR 
Dirty Gerdie T 
Double Chin T 
Double Clutch T 
Easy Keyhole T 
Executioner aka That's Horsesh** T.C., The T 
Eyebrow T 
Fancy Idiot T 
Handy Andy T 
Heel Hook and Hack-it T 
Herdie Gerdie T 
Horseman T 
Katzenjammer T 
Keyhole T 
Lower Eaves T 
Nice 5.9 Climb T 
Nice Crack Climb T 
No Picnic T 
No Solution T,TR 
Nosedive T 
Nurdie Gerdie (aka Dogs in Heat) T 
Pony Express T 
Red Cabbage T 
Red Cabbage Right T 
Retribution T 
Shit or Go Blind T 
Short and Simple T 
Short Job T,TR 
Sonja T 
Stupid Crack T 
Suderiferous: 5.8 variation T 
Sudoriferous T 
Susie K. Block, The T 
Trust Jesus T 
Zoomulator T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fancy Idiot 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer (1955)
Page Views: 1,723
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Balance-y crux move on Fancy Idiot.


P1 - Climb the face to the crescent-shaped flake/corner and a fixed pin. Move up the corner a bit to a ledge (Williams' guide notes a 5.8 variation by climbing a corner to the right - never done it myself), then up to a tree/rap station. Climb the thin face (small gear helpful here), then straight up to a nice ledge, then diagonal up left to loose blocks and a belay/rap tree.

P2 - I have only followed this, has broken rock and is not great (see comment below re: fridge-sized block). Climb the corner above the belay to a bush, pass it on the right, then move left under the ceiling to a corner. Climb a flake to access the corner (crux), and follow it to the top, then traverse right about 20 feet to a tree belay/rap station.


Just left of Bunny below a crescent-shaped flake.

Descend by Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.


Standard Gunks rack plus Lowe Balls and microcams such as Wild Country Zeros or Black Alien.

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By SethG
May 11, 2011

I think it's kind of wacko that Dick gives this climb a star. The first pitch has at most two interesting spots-- one move at the crescent-shaped crack, and then another thin move above the next ledge at the pin. But that's about it. The 5.4 second pitch is a little more interesting than it appears it will be, but this is outweighed by the loose rock, the bushes, the dirty ledges, and the lichen.

I took a look at the 5.9 toprope variation mentioned in Dick's book-- it goes through a cool-looking roof, but this too hardly seems worth the trouble.

I'm not sorry I did the first pitch once but I'll likely never go back again.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Oct 15, 2011

I agree wtih Seth. This is a crappy climb. ONly good for running a TR on the harder variation. Not worth doing and so so gear.
By Kurtz
Oct 8, 2014

Sorry, guys. I liked it (but I'm not very picky). Great route name. You have to walk off if you do P2.
By Mthoresz
Oct 13, 2014

I liked this one. Nothing crazy, but fun balance-y start moves and the little move through the crescent-shaped thing. It's a good add-on to TR if you're doing Bunny.
By john2.71
From: Montclair, NJ
Jun 11, 2015

P1 is worthwhile. It is more technical (and more PG) than many of the 5.6 classics. There's no single big crux to pull, just good face-climbing. Finish up right towards Bunny if you don't feel like climbing the dirty P2.

The crescent is PG. The face above is G.
By Rae Dwyer
Aug 3, 2015

BEWARE! I would not recommend the second pitch. There is a mini-fridge sized block just past the roof that is about to come off. I placed a cam in the 2" crack behind this block and when I tugged on it the whole thing shifted. There are no other placements, so I had to climb past it and got really run out. Its pretty dirty too
By MojoMonkey
May 31, 2017

Dirty and loose and run-out in spots, but I had fun on it. I wouldn't recommend it if it was near your limit I guess, but I thought it was worth checking out the corner on the second pitch.

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