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Cedar Rock - North
Routes Sorted
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5.9 for the Tough Guy T 
Banana Peel  T 
Bayne's Corner T 
Black Swan T 
Crack Cocaine T 
Cut In The Rug T 
Dandy Line T 
Darkness on the Edge T 
Fancy Feat T 
Fish Bowl T 
Fledgling, The T 
Flight of The Raven T 
Forget Me Not T 
Gaskin/Cobourn  T 
Gay by Proxy T,S 
Get in the groove  T 
Hemlock Graveyard T 
Invasive Species T 
It's All Pink On The Inside S 
Little Dickie and the No-No Zone T 
Luau In Your Mouth S 
Media Whore T 
Micromanagement  S 
Mr. Tumnus T 
Native Dance T 
Northern Enclosure T 
Operant Conditioning T,S 
Pending Nuptials  S 
Power of One T 
Rain Dance T 
Raven's Arch T 
Rocket Boy T 
Route of Northern Aggression T 
Route of Passive Aggression, The T 
Sex Is A Chore T 
Smear The Queer T 
Snot Nose T 
Southern Hospitality T 
That's What She Said T 
Un Named T 
Vomiting Verglass T 
Where the Red Ferns Grow T 
Whodunnit T 

Fancy Feat 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 322
Submitted By: nbrown on Apr 21, 2014

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Pitch one in late afternoon light.

Description 

This was the first free line through the amazing headwall (BB's Native Dance was the first line), and the one that opened the gate to several excellent routes above.

While the whole route is fun, pitch one is the lesser quality intro pitch, with pitch two being the money pitch. Unfortunately it's somewhat overshadowed by the crack of "Cut In The Rug" just to the left.

P-1 (intro pitch)
Climb to a ledge and wander up a brief section of blocky (hollow) terrain to a line of bolts. Climb past 3 bolts to an optional #0 TCU (hidden a couple feet above bolt). Continue up past a #1 TCU slot to the 4th bolt. Make bouldery eyebrow moves to gain a horizontal rail (small cam here for traverse)and then move right to the belay.

P-2 (money pitch)
Climb up and right to the stance where "Cut In The Rug" diverges left. From here, move up and right following weird grooves/cracks and jugs to a line of bolts that lead through the eyebrow-laced face and to a groove. Climb groove past a funky shallow finger size cam to easier terrain and the anchor up and left.

Location 

See picture topo. First pitch gains several optional second pitch variations, including the excellent crack and eyebrow-laced face of Cut In Th Rug.

Protection 

Standard rack up to #3 camelot


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