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Middle Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anal Sex T 
Candyass S 
Candyland T 
Chainsaw Willie T,TR 
Clam, The T 
Cockabooty T 
Corn Flakes T 
Fancy Dancin' T,S 
Hard Up T 
Harding's Other Chimney T 
Hooray Hooray! T,TR 
Lean And Mean T 
Leaner and Meaner T 
Over Easy T 
Penny Candy S 
Prow, The S 
Rain Song S,TR 
Regular Route T 
Slowdancer T 
Tyro's Test Piece T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed T 

Fancy Dancin' 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Robert Oravetz & Eric Barrett, 1978
Page Views: 839
Submitted By: Aerili on Nov 20, 2009

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Dirt road winter closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb a short, very thin crack to a short slab run-out. First set of anchors are around the right of the headwall in front of you. Second pitch consists of some vertical face climbing on bolts on the west side of the headwall to the top.

I didn't climb the second pitch, so I am unsure if the 10b rating comes from this section or not. Otherwise I would rate the crack section 9+. Those with bigger fingers might call it 10a.


On the far right end of the north side of Middle Spire. First pitch can be rapped off chain anchors which sit over what I believe is the start to Harding's Other Chimney. Not sure if there are separate anchors at the top of p2 as well, but if not, set a gear anchor and rap off of Candyland's anchors to the south.


Cams below 0.5" and small nuts. Quickdraws for p2.

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By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

First pitch is about 5.8, second pitch is the 10b.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jul 23, 2012

First pitch is pretty chill (5.9?) crack for gear and most of the climbing is on knobs. Sorta heads up at the top, but not hard. The second pitch, 5.10b, is a one move wonder to a knob just above and to the right of the bolt anchor. I think the left variation is 5.12, according to the book.

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