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Fancy Dancer 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 25'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 3,586
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jun 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Cosmic Curt Lee at the base of Fancy Dancer - late...


You will understand why this is called Fancy Dancer once you attempt the balancy, high stepping moves. Follow the thin crack to the right of Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge. The crack ends about half way up the face, you can either lower off or finish on the top of Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge.
  • RCM&W #54, p.166.


This route is located immediately to the right of Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge on the same face and lead up to the middle section of Blue Moon.


Nuts and small cams on lead. Standard top rope set up, often TRed on the same anchors as Number 6 a.k.a. The Bulge.

Photos of Fancy Dancer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Big stretch for short climbers
Big stretch for short climbers
Rock Climbing Photo: Fancy Dancer
BETA PHOTO: Fancy Dancer

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By Josh Cox
From: Andover, MN
Mar 22, 2010

A thought inducing route. Little trickier for short climbers. Over all VERY FUN!
By rooooock
From: Oakland, California
Sep 3, 2014

I tried this route the other day. I assumed the arete is off near the top. I basically found myself with a bunch of poor holds and mostly just a wobbly block to make a huge reach to a great jug (final difficult move). I think I can do the route this way next time I come back, I'm mostly just curious if reaching right towards the arete is acceptable beta.

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