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(3) Long Lane
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Family 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 205
Submitted By: BrianWS on Feb 14, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Bolt Failures - Donations Help MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Low angle, easyish climbing past one or two bolts brings you to a very comfortable stance, where the route shifts to slightly overhanging. Power through sloping holds and small vertical seams for about two bolts, and the difficulty eases considerably until the anchors.
The hard climbing is short, stout, and very fun, and the rock quality is very good. Add a few letters to the grade in humid conditions!

Location 

On the right side of Long Lane. Starts right of Pocket Overhang.

Protection 

316 steel (2005)


Photos of Family Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the crux with a smile
Pulling the crux with a smile

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By BrianWS
Feb 14, 2015

A good route, but didn't seem to get much attention. Climbed with Milk or Wiktor, 2009ish.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jun 9, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This route is on you from the first bolt. Use open holds and crimps with a specific sequence through a slight overhang for several moves until you snag a pebbly rail. From here you will climb three more sections of fun 5.10 broken up by ledges - not so trivial after such a pumpy start unless you really milk the rests. Fairly long and continuous by LD standards.

Bolts are 316 stainless steel from 2005 that have seen better days. 10-15 bolts including anchors.
By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Jul 4, 2015

Guidebook says .11c. It felt harder than that to me, but conditions were very hot and humid. Great Route, after the crux there are several places to ease the pump.
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Feb 11, 2017

A very good route that is often overlooked. Recommended for 5.12 climbers and above, as the 5.11 sequence is rather tricky to figure out.
By BrianWS
Feb 11, 2017

Nah, I sent this well before I sent any "real" LD 5.12s. With the right beta and good conditions, a 5.11 climber would be fine on this route.

That being said, it is doesn't have (as I recall...) any of the ultra bomber rests that most 12- lines have at LD, often just before the crux. A very good line regardless of grade or difficulty.

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