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Family Plot 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 340', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: Paul and Andy Ross 10/2000
Page Views: 2,672
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2004

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Nathan Sydnor free climbing Family Plot's crux fir...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Start just right of Keswick Lads Day Out on the north side of the formation. Watch out for weak friable rock in sections of the crack.

Pitch 1: 100' 5.7 C1Make a long reach to the first pin then aid past three bolts to a good finger sized crack. Clean aid the crack using TCU's. Pass a pod with some wide crack and a short section of easy free climbing. Continue aiding the thin crack to a bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 85' 5.8 C1Aid the hand and fist sized crack up and over the roof. After the roof make some slabby moves on slippery sandy stone before aiding one last steep section and making one more scary free move to the anchor.

Pitch 3: 100' 5.5Follow the offwidth up and left until it turns into a 4th class chimney and belay from gear near the summit.


wires and lots of tcu's and cams up to 4 inches with many extra TCU's.

Photos of Family Plot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul on first ascent ..first pitch
Paul on first ascent ..first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of the first pitch. This is a low ...
Nearing the top of the first pitch. This is a low ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Kiessel on pitch one.
Ben Kiessel on pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: aiding off the bolts on pitch 1
aiding off the bolts on pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: family plot
BETA PHOTO: family plot

Comments on Family Plot Add Comment
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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Mar 31, 2004

the route FAMILY Plot is right of KESWICK LADS DAY OUT.. First climbed in Oct 2000 by P and A Ross. A full discription is in Desert Rock IV by Bjornstad
By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett
Oct 31, 2004

It's a little over 200' from the top of pitch 2 to the summit. We downclimbed the slabs and the offwidth (tedious) and rapped the route. A faster way to finish Family Plot would be to lug the gear to the top and rap RIP.The belay/rappel anchor for RIP is real obvious, close to the summit.
By Brejcha
Oct 26, 2006

I climbed this route in april-ish of 05, the first pitch was a fun crack, I got a nice sand shower at the pitch 1 belay. I also got stung on the finger by a wasp at the first belay. We rapped kenswick so we could scope it.

Just a warning-- someone shot at the anchors at the top of the first pitch on Kenswick, there were bullet holes in the webbing and a few bullets hit within an inch of the bolts, one got knicked too. It's kinda scary because there's not much of a stance there and the bolts are not too good anymore.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Nov 16, 2006

Keswick Lads Day Out:- Last year (2005) someone had left a full fixed rope at the belay of the big corner mentioned above . This rope was in place for quite some considerable time . This is the reason some gun happy cowboy shot the crap out of the anchors trying to get the rope . More blame should be given to the climbers who abandoned this rope, leaving it flapping in the breeze for months.
By Ben Kiessel
Apr 23, 2007

Ditto what Crusher said. We did what he did, and recommend what he recommends.
By Jay 1975
From: Bonedale,CO
Aug 10, 2007

the third bolt was pulled straight out when my buddy stood on it, and he decked...broken foot. just shows how skipping bolts on a bolt ladder isn't the best decision always, or on soft rock. bolt is now gone though.
By Brad Brandewie
Dec 2, 2007

More photos and a TR at
By herb crimp
Aug 25, 2015

Nathan Sydnor and I recently freed this route. Nate led the first pitch free, which we think weighs in at about 12-. The second pitch went at a very sandy mid 11. A lot of the climbing features awesome varnish but you should expect a veneer of sand.
By Nate Sydnor
From: Moab
Mar 26, 2016

Done with the help of some great friends. Cruxes include navigating some sandy rock, beautiful varnished finger tip cracks, and assorted desert tactics. Big thanks go out to my lovely wife Evelyn, Herb (who thankfully lead the sandy/scary 2nd pitch) and Melissa for making it all come together. Future parties should bring a standard desert rack to a #2 Camalot, with extra tips and fingers pieces of assorted brands. If you don't want to go to the top, a 60m rope will get you down from the first anchor.

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