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B. Middle Cliff Routes
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Boaty's Birthday S 
Breaking the Wishbone T,TR 
Compound Fracture T 
Family Picnic S 
Flippin the bird T 
Fuck Rumney T 
Golf Ball Sized Urethra  T,TR 
Maybe God's a Trad Climber T 
Mountaineers Route, The T 
Traction Splint  T 

Family Picnic 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Hansen Derek Doucet 5/02
Page Views: 2,972
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Sep 26, 2011

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Nearing the top of a route on one of the more remo...

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Description 

On par with any of the multi-pitch routes at the 82. Long, steep and thoughtful characterize this fun romp up a nice exposed buttress.

start on the left side of a 70/80 foot buttress/pillar of rock in the center of the Main Cliff. The route is unmistakeable, as bolts mark the way. Pitch one is tricky little number with some balance and faith required at the crux. Finish on a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

The 2nd pitch climbs steep rock up past an insecure block (step around it gingerly!!) to a series of delicate moves to a nice ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

A single rap with 2 60 meter ropes with get you back to the ground.

Location 

Center of the Main Cliff Wall on the left side of an obvious buttress of rock.

Protection 

10 QDs, plus some small nuts if you want to avoid the runouts.


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By Derek Doucet
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hi Chris-

It's awesome you've been getting up to Bone! I haven't been in years. Paul and I also did a great 2 pitch 5.10 just left of Family Picnic called "Fathers Day". It's adequately protected with a mix of gear (bring some small wires) and bolts, and very fun. Highly recommended. It has its own anchor on top of P1, but shares the "Family Picnic" top anchor.

Cheers,

Derek

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