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Family Man 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Beh, Matt Samet, Phil Gruber, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,845
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Jul 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Pullin' the 5.11 roof.

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  • Description 

    Family Man starts 15 feet left of Boys With Power Toys. This steep route climbs through 3 successive overhangs.

    Climb a 5.8 slab up to a left-facing corner. A 5.10 move gets you established below the first roof. (The first roof is typical blocky Flatirons sandstone. Be a little careful with what you pull on here but the rest of the route has solid stone.) A 5.11 move gets you to jugs at the lip and then a good rest above.

    The second roof is the crux, maybe a V4 move to a jug, hard to read and easier if you're tall. Be ready to keep moving, the pump clock will be ticking from here to the top. After the crux, traverse right along a rail to get a shake and then back left and up to a jug flake. This is a huge reach from the rail just above your your feet, Maybe easy 11 if you are 6 feet. much harder if you are shorter. The final bulge is pumpy 5.11 on cool, water sculpted holds.

    Protection 

    13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


    Photos of Family Man Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Turner at the crux.
    BETA PHOTO: Dave Turner at the crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Family Man.
    BETA PHOTO: Looking up Family Man.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Turner pulling the 5.11 first roof.
    BETA PHOTO: Dave Turner pulling the 5.11 first roof.

    Comments on Family Man Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Chris Beh
    Jul 3, 2008

    Matt Samet drilled all 11 protection bolts for me on 6/21/08. What a Bro! I doubt I could have redpointed the same day if I had to do all that drilling. Thanks Matt. Matt tr'd clean and then pulled up the drill. After another top rope burn and some thorough brushing I was able to redpoint on my first attempt.
    Phil went up there with me last year the first time we climbed on the route. As usual Phil figured out all the moves right away. I sent the route on tr that day.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jul 4, 2008

    Funny, Matt and I were just talking about that very subject in reference to a different route a little earlier this week.
    The contribution and effort speaks very well of Matt... but to get 'credit' for an ascent, I have always thought that climbing the route is required.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Jul 10, 2008

    Very nice route Chris, a good addition to the selection of climbs there! However, I was surprised to find a long (20+ foot?) runout at the end and I'm wondering if I missed a bolt up there? Now all we need is a warm up route easier than 11d for this area!
    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Jul 29, 2008

    Great route, tricky crux. Seemed harder than Undertow, way more sustained. Way to work w/ the FCC. More please....
    By Wayne Crill
    From: an Altered State
    Sep 14, 2008

    Nice route Chris, fun climbing and lots of it. Kudos on the heavy labor Matt.

    I agree with Steve and gotta say bro, after all your squealing about the "contrived runout" on Kevin's route Wishbone in Eldo, that was quite the little contrived run-out atop this route, seriously out of character with the plethora of nice bolts on the rest of it. Not that I'm suggesting anyone waste their time or money adding one as it's fine. Better than fine, it's a great addition, with more traffic it should become a classic on this soon to be "number crunching crag", keep up the good work man.

    Looking forward to the upcoming .13s . . . .
    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Jun 9, 2013

    That reach is real hard if you are 5'10" or shorter.... It is the second crux certainly.
    By Jay Park
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 3, 2014
    rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

    At 5'7'', the reach move sure felt like another crux. Any shorter it might feel harder than the crux proper.
    By Rui Ferreira
    From: Longmont, CO
    Aug 29, 2016
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    This is a great climb with lots of variety bottom to top. The reach move above the crux did not feel bad, far more reasonable than the reach on Film Noir. There is the possibility to get an intermediate with the left hand and bump again for the rail above.

    Well-protected with the new bolt added above the crux.
    By ANGUS WIESSNER
    From: Denver Colorad
    Jun 4, 2017
    rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

    Glad the new bolt was added less heady more fun.

    Great route and great route to wire for a warm-up for this crag.
    By Mark E Dixon
    From: Sprezzatura, Someday
    Aug 1, 2017

    Nice variety on this climb.
    Shorties should give it a go - you can pull through if necessary. The crux has alternative short person beta. The long reach above the rail took every bit of my 67 inch wingspan, but maybe you are more clever than me?
    Very well-bolted on the steep bit, enough bolts on the slab.

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