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The Slab
Routes Sorted
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$00pr kr33m S 
Boys with Power Toys S 
Bulges T 
Diagonal T 
Family Man S 
Film Noir S 
Hippopotamus S 
Junior Niblits 
Just Another Boy's Climb T 
k00kEEz and krEEm S 
Keyhole, The T 
Kr33m in the $33m TR 
Left 'N Up T 
m1n1-kr33m TR 
Nasty Boys S 
Northeast Arete T 
Pen 15 S 
Prime the Pump S 
Return of Dow, The T 
s00kr33m S 
Shalohsh S 
Sick For Sleeping S 
Sweet NiBLitz S 
Syzygy T 
Trad kr33m T 
Undertow S 
Whipping Post S 

Family Man 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chris Beh, Matt Samet, Phil Gruber, 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,520
Submitted By: Chris Beh on Jul 3, 2008

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Pullin' the 5.11 roof.

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Family Man starts 15 feet left of Boys With Power Toys. This steep route climbs through 3 successive overhangs.

Climb a 5.8 slab up to a left-facing corner. A 5.10 move gets you established below the first roof. (The first roof is typical blocky Flatirons sandstone. Be a little careful with what you pull on here but the rest of the route has solid stone.) A 5.11 move gets you to jugs at the lip and then a good rest above.

The second roof is the crux, maybe a V4 move to a jug, hard to read and easier if you're tall. Be ready to keep moving, the pump clock will be ticking from here to the top. After the crux, traverse right along a rail to get a shake and then back left and up to a jug flake. This is a huge reach from the rail just above your your feet, Maybe easy 11 if you are 6 feet. much harder if you are shorter. The final bulge is pumpy 5.11 on cool, water sculpted holds.

Protection 

13 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Family Man Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Turner at the crux.
BETA PHOTO: Dave Turner at the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up Family Man.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Family Man.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave Turner pulling the 5.11 first roof.
BETA PHOTO: Dave Turner pulling the 5.11 first roof.

Comments on Family Man Add Comment
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By Chris Beh
Aug 13, 2016

CONDITION REPORT 
A new bolt was added on 8/13, above the 8th bolt, to provide more comfortable protection for the big reach move above the crux. I have a friend who at 5 foot cruised the crux 2nd roof and got shut down above where I just added the bolt. A hold broke a couple of years after the FA.
By Chris Beh
Jul 3, 2008

Matt Samet drilled all 11 protection bolts for me on 6/21/08. What a Bro! I doubt I could have redpointed the same day if I had to do all that drilling. Thanks Matt. Matt tr'd clean and then pulled up the drill. After another top rope burn and some thorough brushing I was able to redpoint on my first attempt.
Phil went up there with me last year the first time we climbed on the route. As usual Phil figured out all the moves right away. I sent the route on tr that day.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jul 4, 2008

Funny, Matt and I were just talking about that very subject in reference to a different route a little earlier this week.
The contribution and effort speaks very well of Matt... but to get 'credit' for an ascent, I have always thought that climbing the route is required.
By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Jul 10, 2008

Very nice route Chris, a good addition to the selection of climbs there! However, I was surprised to find a long (20+ foot?) runout at the end and I'm wondering if I missed a bolt up there? Now all we need is a warm up route easier than 11d for this area!
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Jul 29, 2008

Great route, tricky crux. Seemed harder than Undertow, way more sustained. Way to work w/ the FCC. More please....
By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Sep 14, 2008

Nice route Chris, fun climbing and lots of it. Kudos on the heavy labor Matt.

I agree with Steve and gotta say bro, after all your squealing about the "contrived runout" on Kevin's route Wishbone in Eldo, that was quite the little contrived run-out atop this route, seriously out of character with the plethora of nice bolts on the rest of it. Not that I'm suggesting anyone waste their time or money adding one as it's fine. Better than fine, it's a great addition, with more traffic it should become a classic on this soon to be "number crunching crag", keep up the good work man.

Looking forward to the upcoming .13s . . . .
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 9, 2013

That reach is real hard if you are 5'10" or shorter.... It is the second crux certainly.
By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

At 5'7'', the reach move sure felt like another crux. Any shorter it might feel harder than the crux proper.
By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 29, 2016
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a

This is a great climb with lots of variety bottom to top. The reach move above the crux did not feel bad, far more reasonable than the reach on Film Noir. There is the possibility to get an intermediate with the left hand and bump again for the rail above.

Well-protected with the new bolt added above the crux.