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Family Jewels, 11/11/04 photo.
The second pitch of this climb is the obvious, left-facing dihedral on the right side of the formation.
First pitch (5.7): the first pitch follows the left-facing dihedral system that is broken by a few ledges. It begins in a wide crack and trends up and right. It ends on the grassy, sloping ledge below the roof at the bottom of the clean, golden dihedral of the second pitch.
Second pitch (5.9): continue up and right to the roof, then back left toward the dihedral. Make an exciting move to establish your feet on the face beside the dihedral, then enjoy some enjoyable crack climbing to the top of the dihedral.
Descent: walk right along ledges to the lower of two trees and rappel.
One large cam to protect the wide crack at the bottom, otherwise a standard rack should suffice.
By Kevin Presley
Dec 6, 2015
Super dirty and lots of shrubbery, the climbing is really fun though. Worth the effort if you are up there. I would say do it so you don't ever have to slog up there ever again.