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Family Jewels 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Lent, Nick Gully, Jeremy Degroff
Page Views: 130
Submitted By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 18, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Tom Gosselin topping out over the roof


Climb the broken, unappealing rock below the small roof and pull through the roof (crux), passing a bolt along the way, to a hand-sized crack. Follow the crack to easier, albeit dirty, rock above with a little space between protection. Belay off of trees at the top.

Opinion: This seems like a very very very easy 5.8+. No where near the burlfest of the similarly-graded Clutch and Cruise.


Start: Approximately 50 left of the start for North Country Club Crack at a section of broken rock. There is a small roof with a single bolt below the roof.
Descent: There is no fixed anchor at the top. Either follow the walk-off trail down from the top or walk down to the fixed anchor for North Country Club Crack.


One bolt below the small roof. No fixed anchors at the top.

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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Jul 18, 2009

If someone wants to add more detailed gear info or anything else, post a comment and I'll amend the route info. It's been a while since I climbed this so my memory isn't as clear.
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Jul 19, 2009

I think your description is spot on, and I would amend it at all. Your description allows the climber to judge what gear will/will not work, and if he/she wants to climb it at all. I agree, this route is a bit easy in the grade, AND very dirty to boot!!
By Jay Piasecki
From: Keene Valley, NY
Apr 3, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Really just a one move wonder at the lone bolt... still a fun route none the less. Despite other accounts the runout slab isn't that dirty. (And it's only 5.3-5.4 for 20 ft.)
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Loose and dirty start, fun moves pulling through the roof! Then a short crack climb to the top!
By KVRob
May 3, 2014

I didn't find it dirty at all. One move wonder..yes. It's really a good introductory 5.8. You have to clip the bolt from a stance that isn't perfect, then keep moving for a few moves. I would take away the +.

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