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Family Jewels 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Paul Huebner on Aug 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Family Jewels

Description 

Start from pedestal left of the formation's corner, step right around the corner to a hidden dihedral, climb the dihedral, then finish up a short, enjoyable jam crack. Crux is a couple of moves getting up dihedral.

Protection 

Standard rack.


Photos of Family Jewels Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jake Blanc in the clean dihedral
Jake Blanc in the clean dihedral
Rock Climbing Photo: "Family Jewels" starts in the lower left...
BETA PHOTO: "Family Jewels" starts in the lower left...

Comments on Family Jewels Add Comment
Show which comments
By ronn fieldhouse
Apr 21, 2008

I have found this to be an enjoyable 5.7 that looks harder than it is. If you are climbing at this level it is worth checking out.
By Tom Lausch
From: Madison WI
Sep 9, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Be careful on lead. The lower section has a decent runout when rounding the corner. The rest can be sewn up using small nuts or mirco cams. Overall great climb.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Wonderfully sustained!

A #2 ballnut works great! for the first crux move. You can also fish in a very narrow nut, but its more work.

Starting from the left pedestal, I think "5.7" is a sandbag. If you don't see the move, you can also start from "Gravel Pit" on the right, and traverse in.
By James Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 9, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Maybe I was trying to stay too low, but traversing in from the left felt harder than 5.7 (and scary on lead!), but coming from the right on Gravel Pit felt honest at the grade, and was enjoyable.
By MintyAlpinist
Aug 17, 2015

Jewels is a good "A1" for February gear-placing practice (although I have a vague memory of using some sort of hook, and maybe a free move or two in the middle, just for spice).

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