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Unsorted Routes:

Family Jewels 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Darryl Roth, Mark Van Horn, '89
Page Views: 1,362
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Family Jewels is an old-school classic that is unfortunately marred by the 2002 addition of a new squeezejob to the right. It's hard to feel like you're not cheating when your foot is 2 inches from one of the neighboring route's bolts.

Begin up a slabby prow on stellar rock clipping homemade angle-iron hangers. Some tricky moves at the top of the slab lead to a rest at the horizontal break. Move right onto the face where thin crimping and the occasional pocket lead to a clean, rippled panel. A thin two-finger pocket and a big dyno gain a sickled-shaped ripple that offers some marginal crimps. Move quickly with poor feet to the anchor.


This is the first route right of My Testosterone... on the South end of The Vault.


Bolts to 2 BA. This anchor could be improved. The right bolt has two SMC hollow aluminum rap rings. A screw link or two would make a world of difference.

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By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008

I found the crux move on top pretty tough and a little reachy. Using the highest foot I can use with my left foot and upside down horn with my left hand, I can just barely reach the sloper top with fingertip of my right hand. Overall a pretty good climb with increasing difficulty toward the top. I think you can skip the crux by going to the crack on the far left, but I don't recommend it. Getting back to the line is pretty saucy, I think.
By richard magill
May 10, 2010

Great line, seems to get harder with every move!

Just follow the bolts: even if you could "skip the crux" (which I doubt), that would be lame - the crux is awesome. Also no issues with the nearby routes. Great - do it!
By slim
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This thing keeps coming at you. Sharp, thin, technical, devious, excellent. A lot of tricky footwork and long reaches to small holds. Hell of a route. Just when you think you are through the crux, be ready for one last stretch that is not easy. At all.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2013

Brilliant crux sequence all the way at the top right before the chains. Hard face climbing doesn't get much better than this....

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