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Family Jewel 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Long
Page Views: 4,330
Submitted By: veritus on Jan 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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Jackie Trejo showing off some lats.


Fun route with a very short overhung section.


Just to the right of Gorgeous.


8 bolts. only 5 are needed.

Photos of Family Jewel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: reaching the crux
reaching the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jackie Trejo nearing the over hung portion of the ...
Jackie Trejo nearing the over hung portion of the ...

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By John Long
Aug 29, 2010

Took Joe and I two days to clean the choss off this wall. Joe set the bolts and I led the FA. 5.10c/d.
By Cory Harelson
From: Boise, ID
Nov 26, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

A nice route with a fun crux.

Two of the three bolts at the anchor were a bit wiggly . . .
By Erin Selvaggio
From: Sherman Oaks, CA
Apr 24, 2012

I personally think this is a better warm up than it's easier neighbor, Gorgeous. It's a straight forward route, a little pumpy but all the falls are clean. Overall, a MUST do if you're at Mt. Gorgeous IMHO
By Jeffrey Lieberman
Nov 24, 2013

Great route! The business starts after the alcove..up good jugs through overhanging rock to the tricky sharp pocket move..then up and over and on to your feet again and the anchors above. One of my favorites at the creek.
By Wei-Li
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jun 23, 2014

My climbing buddy said two of the three anchors were loose on this route when he climbed it a week ago. I haven't inspected the anchors so I don't know exactly what's wrong. Has anyone looked at the anchors on this route recently?
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Aug 3, 2016

7 lead bolts. anchor's two outside cold shuts now solid, with the middle one a lil loose

FYI a big handwritten warning in chalk from the day before on the wall at the start (maybe next time just write that on a large piece of rock and lean that against the base?) regarding a wasp nest high on the route. nest in a non-handhold hueco as noted in photo, already marked by chalk at its upper rim. no issue cranking past the nest on lead. wouldn't want to loiter on that upper pumpy section anyway. one nonaggressive wasp at the time. later, multiple wasps came out as followers went by on TR, but got to anchor fine to clean and get back down

Rock Climbing Photo: Wasp nest on Family Jewel, as of 3 Aug 2016.
Wasp nest on Family Jewel, as of 3 Aug 2016.

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