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North Buttress of Cathedral
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beer Gut T 
Double Down T 
Family Flake T 
Garden Party T 
Grand Central T 
Hops'n'Barley T 
Metal Pecker T 
Muscle Fat T 
Party of Two T 
Pedestal Center TR 
Small Arch Left Side TR 

Family Flake 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 280'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Philip Matena (2014)
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: Vlada Matena on Aug 17, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Philip Matena leading pitch 2. The pitch ends at t...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Family Flake shares the first pitch and a part of its second pitch with Muscle Fat. Where Muscle Fat departs from the flake and turns right to follow a diagonal crack, Family Flake continues climbing up the flake and then traverses left to the anchors of Metal Pecker.

Pitch 1 (5.3 PG). Scramble up low 5th class slabs to a gear belay (small cams) beneath the bottom of the right side crack below the Small Arch.

Pitch 2 (5.6). The flake is 5.5 but save one 2” cam to place as the last pro before the 5.6 traverse to the belay station (shared with Metal Pecker). The traverse is on an easy slab with knobs but it takes no pro.

Descend: 240 feet. Two 60 meter ropes required plus short third class walk-off.

Location 

The route starts 200 feet left of the toe of the Buttress.

GPS: GPS N37.86256 W119.39920.

Protection 

Gear to 3 inches.


Photos of Family Flake Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Julia Lin leading Family Flake.
Julia Lin leading Family Flake.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down from the top of Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Looking down from the top of Pitch 1.

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