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The Lighthouse
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Fame and Notoriety T 
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Fame and Notoriety 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jake Dayley, Dustin Wildermuth - May 2012
New Route: Yes
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 170
Submitted By: Jake Dayley on Mar 10, 2016

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Another look at Fame and Notoriety


This route is 5 pitches but only pitches 1 and 2 are described here. The dihedral on pitch three never went free and above it the rock quality deteriorates. Message me if you want info on 3-5.

Pitch 1 - 5.10, 140'. Mega! Stellar sustained 5.10 fingers. Forty feet of 5.9 face lead to the limestone band. Work through it and a cruxy section just above and you'll hit the fingers. Fingers and more fingers with a brief easy OW section then back to fingers. At about 100 feet above the limestone band step right to a two bolt semi-hanging belay.

Pitch 2 - 5.10-, 50'. Work through a few right-angling awkward moves and then up easier terrain to a two-bolt belay at the base of the dihedral.

Rappel - Rap 190' back to your packs.


The obvious right-angling crack system on the north face of the Lighthouse


(2) tips sized pieces.
3-4 thin to big fingers (.3-.5 camalots).
1-2 each up to hands (.75-2 camalots).
One fist sized piece optional.

(2) 60m ropes.

Photos of Fame and Notoriety Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 1-2 of Fame and Notoriety.  The pitch thre...
Pitches 1-2 of Fame and Notoriety. The pitch thre...

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