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False Rat Ledge 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Haber & Joe Dietrick 1987
Page Views: 566
Submitted By: Bo Johnston on Nov 25, 2002

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False Rat Ledge (5.8), Joshua Tree NP



If you like attention from tourist, this climb puts you in the spotlight being just across the Barker Dam from the popular nature trail. No particular move on this route might be remembered, however, the position by the water and the length and moderate difficulty of it all makes it a must do. The second half of the route could be considered difficult to protect for some so this may not be appropriate for the fledgling trad leader.


A light standard J-Tree rack will be enough. 1"-3" for the first half and smaller cams for the upper. I recall there being a bolt at the end where the crack peters out before the summit slab. Two bolt anchor at the top and walk off.

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By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 11, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A decent route that gets lots of sun and very little traffic. There were no problems protecting this climb if I recall, and as such would recommend it to all. One star out of five.

The line shown in the Vogel guide is incorrect, as the climb is actually much further left and starts on the other side of the dam (see the Bartlett guide). That said, the obvious question is - what's the climb shown in Randy's book?
By Bo Johnston
Feb 11, 2005

The picture I have on P.277 of the Vogel guide seems to have the correct line for the route...
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 11, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Rat Ledge is incorrectly depicted as the left-facing corner just right of The Arraignment (5.10a), a decent but somewhat contrived bolted slab that starts in a flake, which means you climbed another route.

The real Rat Ledge starts on the west side of the dam, has a jog (crux) about mid-height and is a continuous crack the entire way.

The description you give of the crack petering out fits with what's shown in Randy's guide, but doesn't fit with the real route. The fact the route was aided first and later freed is something else to consider. Certainly an obvious feature but not Rat Ledge...Rat Crack maybe?
By Randy
Feb 11, 2005

The route shown in the 1992 guide as Rat Ledge is in fact NOT Rat Ledge, but rather a route called False Rat Ledge (5.8) established by Dave Haber & Joe Dietrick in 1987.
By C Miller
From: CA
Feb 11, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks closed!
By Bo Johnston
Feb 13, 2005

I guess we still agree that it is 5.8? It seemed like it to me. I'd be interested now to go and check out the real Rat Ledge if I can find it.

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