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Capitol Gorge
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False Premonitions  

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bob van Belle, Jocelyn van Belle, April 1994
Page Views: 1,893
Submitted By: josh holmes on Oct 17, 2008  with updates from bvb

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Not a great picture, but it shows the route being ...


An amazing hand crack in a right facing dihedral. Climb easy broken rock 10 feet to a ledge at the base of the corner proper. From here jam absolutely amazing hand crack (#2 camolots or #2.5 friends) to a good stance below crux off-width (less than a body lenght, a #4 camalot fits perfect). Thrutch up off-width for a couple of moves to the anchor on the left.


The route is located about 100 yards to the right of Mystery Splitter on the North side of the canyon. Drive as if going to Classic Hand Crack, but park about 100 yards past the picnic tables/pavilion on the left (north) side of the road at an obvious wash. Hike back up the road (west) about 30 feet and follow cairns up a wash, eventually gaining the right side of the gully and topping out at the base of the cliff about 50 feet to the right of the route. Rappel the route with a 60M rope. There is an EXTREMELY SANDY off-hands to tips 5.11 corner 10 feet the right, that I would not recommend to anyone.


5-7 #2 camalots, 1 #3 camalot, 1 #4 camalot

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By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Oct 25, 2008


I think, if the crack in the picture is what you actually climbed, then you might be mistaken on the name. Initially I posted the picture with the label steel harpoon but with some uncertainty. I believe the crack in the picture, which also fits your written description, is named False Premonitions. The rating is right. And the route to the right, which I would contend is a solid 5.11 (and worth doing, the overlap in the middle, liebacking past tcus is pretty engaging) is called Porn for Dirty. STONE Harpoon is down the cliff a ways.
By josh holmes
Nov 1, 2008

If the name is wrong blame the locals from Teasdale (they also rate it 5.9)...I'll try to double check the route name with a guy who's putting together a new guidebook for the area. And as for the dirt-festival next-door to the right...that thing is the dirtiest route I've been on in the Reef, but if you like cleaning your cams after one 60 foot pitch...go for it.

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