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Shortoff Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Appalachain Chuffer T 
Appalachain Runt T 
Between The Lines T 
Big Arete, The T 
Bonsai T 
Built to Tilt T 
Change Up T 
Comfortably Numb T 
Construction Job T 
Dancing Outlaw, The T,S 
Desp-arete S 
Dopey Duck T 
Early Times T 
Energizer T,S 
Enterprise, The T 
False Paradise T 
Finders Keepers T 
Fly By T 
Footloose T 
For The Birds T 
Full Tilt Boogie T 
Golden Rule T,S 
Gully Rappel T,TR 
Help Mr. Wizard T 
Humdinger T 
Hurricane Escape Hatch T 
Julia T 
Just Another Pretty Face T,S 
Last Straw, The T,S 
Learning to fly T 
Little Corner T 
Lost and Found T,S 
Made in the shade T 
Maginot Line T 
Maginot Roof T 
Paradise Alley T 
Paradise City T 
Paradise Lost T 
Pickett's Charge T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Reacharound T 
Saddle Up T 
Sleight of Hand T 
Stopperhead Arete T 
Straight and Narrow T 
Supercrack  T 
Tilted Arms T 
Toxic Shock T 
Trick Or Treat T 
Turn and Burn T 
Twist of fate T 
White Corner T 
White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

False Paradise 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman (1979)
Page Views: 2,831
Submitted By: John Saunders on Nov 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Barry leading p1

  • All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    Pitch 1: Follow the arching corner until it ends. The cross some heavily featured face to the belay at the top of pitch 1 of Paradise Alley. (5.7; 120 feet).
    Pitches 2 - 4: Finish on Paradise Alley.

    Location 

    Start at the corner 40 feet left of Paradise Alley

    Protection 

    -


    Comments on False Paradise Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Edward Medina
    Administrator
    From: Ridgway, CO
    Dec 15, 2011

    5.7 rating is a little deceptive. To top out this route you must climb the 5.8+ upper pitches of Paradise Alley. The first pitch is better than anything on Maginot Line.
    By Russ Keane
    Oct 6, 2016

    But isn't P2 - P4 of Paradise Alley 5.7 anyway?
    By Russ Keane
    Apr 17, 2017

    I finally climbed this route. It's not really 5.8. One could reasonably call it 5.7 It's a good route with great protection and fun moves.

    The first pitch is money. Tremendous 5.7 corner. You don't end up at with the P1 belay of Paradise Alley. You can see it... but it would be a horrible traverse. Build a gear belay and keep going up the corner system. Eventually you will pull up onto the giant mossy ledge which is the top of P2 of Paradise Alley. Now you are on the same climb. The final two "pitches" are short, steep jug-fests which are arguably 5.8- at most, but could easily be called 5.7. Protection is abundant, and the sequences are short because the walls are 40 ft. and 25 ft. respectively. Then it's over.

    This climb is a good addition to the 5.7 offerings at Shortoff. P1 is classic.

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