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False Expectations 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Vincent larochelle on Apr 27, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: False Expectations (Yellow/left) and Chemical Depe...

Description 

This route is basically a 5.8 except for one move over the bulge. Perhaps that's where it gets its name from.

Start just to the right of Untitled 2. Make your way towards the hold-less bulch higher to the right. Thankfully you will be clipped in when you make the move, although a fall is unlikely to be pleasant. Once over the bulge, breeze up veering slight right until you make it to the anchor.

There are many ways over the bulge. Some talk of finger holes, others of tiny crimps here and there. Others just pull on the rope to get over it.

Protection 

6 Bolts! Anchor with rings at the top.


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