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Dry Falls
Routes Sorted
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Ape Factor T,S 
Ashram T,S 
Beat Around The Bush T 
Falling Shirkens S 
Finish What You Started S 
Flying Sheep S 
History Repeats Itself T,S 
La Vena Negra S 
Lounge Lizard S 
Slaughtumn S 
Slip-Slidin' Away T,S 
Spankin The Sherkin S 

Falling Shirkens 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 165'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Rus Smith
Season: Any time
Page Views: 1,359
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Sep 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Falling Shirkins, Dry Falls. Dave Cox & Mike Fogar...


An easy slabby route with the crux at the start


Far left on main face


Twelve quickdraws

Photos of Falling Shirkens Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: d Dave Cox 1st pitch Falling Sherkin
d Dave Cox 1st pitch Falling Sherkin
Rock Climbing Photo: Shawn Scott, 2nd pitch.
Shawn Scott, 2nd pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Fogarty Falling Sherkin
Mike Fogarty Falling Sherkin
Rock Climbing Photo: falling shirkens 5.7
BETA PHOTO: falling shirkens 5.7

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By Floyd Hayes
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Pitch 1 is 90' and has 4 protection bolts. Pitch 2 is about 115' and has 6 protection bolts (or 7 if you move slightly right and clip an off-route anchor with a long sling about halfway up the pitch). Walking off looked scary (class 4 or easy class 5?). We used two ropes to rappel. A single 70 m rope might suffice. The bolts are all good (except for the off-route anchor, which has old quarter-inch bolts).
By Rough
Nov 30, 2013

Floyd: Did you do the nearby History Repeats Itself? Amazing route! I enjoyed this one as well, but History is the crag gem IMO.
By Floyd Hayes
Dec 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Unfortunately no. We intended to climb History Repeats Itself but just as we arrived a shower soaked the rock, which became really slick. So instead we opted for the easier Falling Shirkens, which dried up after we finished the first pitch (which felt like 5.10 when wet!). We had a big family reunion for Thanksgiving in Palm Desert and didn't have time to do another route.