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Fallen Knight 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 3,637
Submitted By: Ian Harmon on Jul 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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BETA PHOTO: Fallen Knight


Climb the dihedral with a small finger crack (crux), after surmounting the finger crack work left and then angle up right to the top, basically follow the easiest way to the top after the finger crack. A fun route. Closed for many years but re-opened as of Fall 2005.
  • RCM&W #44, p.165.


This route is immediate around the corner left from Good Knight. The rock is lighter in color here due to the recent rock fall.


Standard rack emphasis on smaller gear. Standard top rope set up.

Photos of Fallen Knight Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: me on the crux of fallen knight
BETA PHOTO: me on the crux of fallen knight
Rock Climbing Photo: Fallen Knight
BETA PHOTO: Fallen Knight

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By Laura Stringer
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 31, 2013

Once you're at the first roof to work around, there is a pigeon nest with active occupants on the right. If disturbed, they tend to dive-bomb at you... which is a bit annoying once you are at the immediate next crux requiring focus..
By Kevin Jarta
Sep 24, 2014

What a fantastic crux. Have seen it climbed in many different fashions and tried them all, each equally as fun. Wish the route had more climbing like it. Avoid it on wet days because you get no friction for smearing and because it activates the dried pigeon poop and you get lungs full of that awful smell right before the crux.

Goes great on gear. Few small nuts and a small cam.

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