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Fallen Goat T 
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Fallen Goat 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 700', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ? Bolted by J & B Smoot 2005
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,618
Submitted By: bsmoot on Sep 26, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Great topo of the Super Slab


P1- Friction up the beautiful, sometimes slippery slab to a belay on a rib of rock.(5.7 or 5.8)
P2- Move left to a prominent jam crack. From the top of the crack, move right out onto the face to a bolt. Belay 60' higher (5.8)... great pitch.
P3- Travers right and up to a roof. climb over this (bolt here) and move up to a fixed belay.
P4- Climb over several roofs to the midway ledge. A short distance above is another belay.
P5- Ascend the slab above past bolts and a pin to a belay below roofs.
P6- The roofs above require some cams. Once above the roofs, move right and up to the final belay (may be wet). Rap route.

It's possible that the Jam crack on pitch 2 is a section of the Beckey/Kor route

We named this route after the dead goat we found at the start of the climb.


Start 30' above and right of the lowest point of the slab.


Small rack up to a #2 camalot.

Photos of Fallen Goat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of pitch 2
Nearing the top of pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: slabbin on the super!
slabbin on the super!
Rock Climbing Photo: Cross the waterfall and you're home free
Cross the waterfall and you're home free
Rock Climbing Photo: Chains at end of P1 of Fallen Goat
Chains at end of P1 of Fallen Goat

Comments on Fallen Goat Add Comment
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By zoso
Jan 24, 2011

Pitch 1 is comically hard--you don't expect it to be @ all. Pitch 2 has 40 feet of awesome 5.8 crack. A must do.
By Jim D
Aug 12, 2011

Geez, when's the last time anyone climbed this thing? Standing at the base looking up I could only see one bolt 40 feet up. While I stood there wondering if I was up to the task, I noticed a few small mounds of grass stuck to the face. Most of the bolts on the route were covered in sand and dead grass that had slid down the face and lodged on the bolts. What a joy to brush it off and find big fat shiny bolts.

We didn't have much time and only did the first two pitches. We might have done a first ascent of a variation, however. I doubt we were the first to do it, but I don't see it listed on MP. A few thoughts:

1) The first pitch might be 5.8, but every move on it is 5.8. It is VERY sustained for 5.8 slab. Expect 20-25 foot runouts. They're all clean, and onto huge new bolts. So you wouldn't get hurt, but it's enough to get a 5.8 leader's blood pumping. I'd rate the pitch 5.8+ PG13.

2) There are lots of routes up there and the bolts are hard to see. (Hey Smoots-next time you want to put up a great moderate stop by and I'll give you a few bucks to buy a few extra bolts. It's one thing to have 5.8 runouts on a 5.10 route, entirely different on a 5.8 route. I'm impressed that you drilled it from the ground up, but limiting the runouts to 15 feet would have made this route accessible to 5.7 and 5.8 leaders instead of just 5.10 leaders. Even going back now and adding a few more intermediate bolts wouldn't ruin the route.) Look carefully at the topo and read the pitch description before every pitch. I got off route on the first pitch (see variation below) and would have on the second if I hadn't pulled the topo out halfway up and looked at it.

3) The second pitch 5.8 crack feels remarkably easy after the first pitch. It might be 5.7. It isn't as hard as Satan's Corner, the last pitch of Pentapitch, Bushwhack Crack etc. However, the second pitch is very long. I had 8 feet left on a 60 meter rope at the top of it. Remember to go RIGHT at the top of the crack, not left. There are well-spaced bolt lines going off in each direction. In fact, the last bolt is probably 35-40 feet from the chains. You can get a TCU in 6 feet higher, and it isn't that hard, and if you're really feeling sketched you can step right a few feet to much easier ground halfway to the chains, so it isn't too bad. But it does look like a long way to the chains when you clip that bolt. The route description says "bring a small rack." I don't know what a small rack is, but I placed TCUs 2-5, a #1 and #2 camalot, a stopper, and clipped the fixed pin and two bolts in ~190 feet, and that was "sewn up" compared to the first pitch. (DON'T TAKE A 50 METER FOR THIS ROUTE. You could get down with 2 of them, but you can't get up without simul-climbing with both leader and belayer on 5.8 terrain.)

4) Now, our variation. After the 4th bolt of the first pitch, I couldn't see the next bolt (which is straight up about 20 feet) but I could see a set of chains below the second pitch crack and two bolts between me and it. I have no idea what route these 2 bolts belong to, but this isn't the route marked on the topo as Fallen Goat. The moves are about as hard as the rest of the route. You'd have a bit of a skidding pendulum if you fell, but no big deal. Realize (if you want to do the original route) that the chains you're supposed to be climbing to are not visible from most of the first pitch and that you traverse toward the obvious 2nd pitch crack after the 6th bolt and at the start of the second pitch, not after the 4th bolt.

5) From the top of the second pitch, it is 95 feet to rappel to the rappel station 15 feet left of the crack, then 90 feet to the one below the crack.

I'm looking forward to finishing the route, but will probably just do Forgotten Slab since it shares the top 4 pitches.

Supercrack looks AWESOME! Great views of it from this route.
By zoso
Aug 12, 2011

Who carries 50m ropes these days?

Oh,and @ least 1 vote for NOT adding any bolts.
By bsmoot
Aug 13, 2011


The climbing on the very polished first pitch varies a lot depending on temperature and humidity. At the hardest sections the bolt spacing seems a bit closer than you mention. The routes here, although moderate in grade are not for beginners. Bolt spacing is compatible with canyon traditions and also similar to Glacier Point, in Yosemite. Sometimes a few extra feet had to be climbed to find a place to stop and drill.

I'm glad you stayed with it, kept it together...for a 5.8 leader the first pitch can be a wake up call and nice introduction to moving above your protection.
By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Aug 13, 2011

This is a great first pitch! Long spaces between bolts and thin enough slab force you to keep going instead of hanging out trying to talk yourself into going. At one point on my lead I was 10 feet above my last bolt standing right below a little bulge and couldnt see the next bolt above that bulge, didn't even know if it was there but had to keep going to find out. Spicy for sure but well bolted and fun. Means more that it was bolted on lead. Fun and heady area. Too bad there are more rap stations than lead bolts, sorta takes away from the aesthetics of the place. Anybody know who's placing all those convince anchors? Hehe
By Ben Folsom
Aug 14, 2011

whooo knooows?
By Stefani Day
Sep 18, 2016

Just did this today and it was really fun!. Note that you can get down with a 70m rope, but it requires a bit of downclimbing to the top of pitch 4, reaching down with your PAS to the anchors at top of pitch 3 and pitch 2 and heading left to anchors on another climb instead of the ones at the top of pitch 1. Then another rappel down whatever that route is to the bottom (these anchors, but not the bolts, are shown in the new Granite guidebook). If you're going to do this, KNOT THE ENDS OF THE ROPE!

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