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k. The Slime Wall
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April Showers T 
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 
Blue Stink, The T 
Bragg-Hatch T 
Climb and Punishment T 
Comedy In Three Acts T 
Coprophagia T 
Falled on Account of Strain T 
Frustration Syndrome T 
Golden Showers T 
Hooky T 
Kligfield's Follies T 
Last Frontier T 
Moondance T 
Pressure Drop T 
Raindance T 
Simple Suff T 
Stand, The T 
Sticky Gate T 
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 
Sundance T 
Tangled Up and Blue T 
Techno-Suff TR 
That Thing T 
Wasp T 
Wet Dream T 

Falled on Account of Strain 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Russ Raffa & Eliot Williams - 1977
Page Views: 9,213
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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Eric in the midst of things.


Falled on Account of Strain is a great climb that culminates in a huge roof finish. This is one of the easiest lines up the Slime Wall, but it's no gimmie.

Start about 100' right of Simple Suff and 20' left of April Showers, at a thin crack/seam.

P1: Head up a nice but runout face left of the seam/crack to a bolted anchor. 5.9+, 80'.

P2: Belay, or continue up and right to the massive roof. It's difficult to discern exactly where to pull this roof, but you basically have to do a very big move off a small undercling to reach up over the roof. Once you do this crux move, you'll see some fixed pins that reassure you that you're going the right way. Continue to the belay/rap anchor (new bolts in 2017). 5.10b, 80'.


Standard Rack. #3 Camalot useful for a wide horizontal crack on the first pitch.

Photos of Falled on Account of Strain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the P2 overhangs
In the P2 overhangs
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling the last lip
Pulling the last lip
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric Ratkowski contemplating his near-term future.
Eric Ratkowski contemplating his near-term future.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Tricia on the thin start of Falled on Account of S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Falled P2
Falled P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Boris pulling the Lip on Falled On Account of Stra...
Boris pulling the Lip on Falled On Account of Stra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting horizontal on Falled.
Getting horizontal on Falled.
Rock Climbing Photo: Divnamite going up the first overhang
Divnamite going up the first overhang
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Gottlieb backing up the pin above the second ...
Rich Gottlieb backing up the pin above the second ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Gottlieb on the roofs, linking P1 and P2.
Rich Gottlieb on the roofs, linking P1 and P2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Gottlieb after traversing right low down on P...
Rich Gottlieb after traversing right low down on P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rich Gottlieb after the hard moves on P1.
Rich Gottlieb after the hard moves on P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: no strain no pain
no strain no pain

Comments on Falled on Account of Strain Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2016
By Denis O'Connor
Apr 13, 2006

This excellent route is even better when climbed as a single pitch. To do so, it's easier to take a straight line up to the roof rather than heading left to clip the bolt belay atop P1 and then traversing back right.
By David Stowe
Aug 11, 2008

This route brings a smile to my face every time I do it. Just about as much fun as you can have on a one pitch route. Do it as one pitch, not at all necessary to break it up into two. After you get your gear in, in the middle of the huge overhangs, take a look around and soak in the great exposure. Don't be intimidated by the size of the overhang. Just imagine how good the holds have to be for a roof of that size to be 10b.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 13, 2011

At 5'2", this shorty had no difficulty pulling the roof(s). Awesome climb. P1 is a bit scary, run out and slabby
By paulmadry
Aug 17, 2011

I can't belive that a roof like that is 5.10b
Just don't get sucked into traversing far right at second overhand- i did (there is a well chalked up, good holds horizontal). Just a bit right of the bolt and reach.
By Michael G
Aug 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Paul - it's a pin, not a bolt.
By Kalil Oldham
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 22, 2011

It's all there, but a really tough on-sight climb. I hung at the roof - but loved it still!
By Carl A
From: brooklyn, ny
Apr 18, 2013

Nobody commented on the beginning runout. A 5.9 move at 15+ feet off the deck could break your ankles, but is a lot of fun for sure. Did i miss some gear before the hand traverse? All and all a stellar route and mind blowing as my first clean gunks 5.10!

I too went too far right on the last roof and ended up pumped, brushing dried grass off crimps until I went down and got back left.
By Simon Thompson
From: New Paltz, NY
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

The Williams guidebook describes the first pitch as starting with 5.6 R face climbing "a few feet" left of the thin seam. Maybe I'm a sissy but we could not find any such thing. Ended up doing a LONG traverse in from the left(5.7ish) to avoid the apparent 5.8+/5.9 moves 15' off the deck. Once you get the .75 in the horizontal it's fun crimpy 5.9 into some more run out 5.7 to a horizontal and then the bolts. Pitch 2 is pumpy and fun. I took a fall onto the piton from the last lip. You could back it up if you have more endurance than me.
By Ross Exler
From: New York
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I linked the two pitches, going straight up as described by Denis. No need to go left to the anchor and then back right. With my 70m rope, my partner was able to do a single rope rap from the top, with a few feet to spare.
By Andy Casler
From: Plymouth, NH
Sep 9, 2014

I linked P1 and P2 this weekend, but broke the ceiling farther right than most of the climbers who are pictured on this page.

Gear beta and route description:

I went about 20 ~ 25 feet right of the P1 bolts to a fractured, bulging rock just beneath the ceiling - which had many .75 placements in horizontals, but a shallow blue alien placement on more solid rock to the right - then up (crux) to a chalked horizontal-pancake jug that took a red camalot, then right and up again to jugs, and finally traversed 6 feet left to the finish. Didn't see any pitons, but it felt like 5.10 a/b, and I found a way to get past a seemingly-big reach.

After seeing the mountain project pictures I was worried that I went off route, but I'm not sure because the next climb over is 10d R, and it finishes even farther right.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Sep 19, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

An incredible route! I thought the first pitch was very easy for 5.9. Perhaps a little thin but the gear and hold are all there. Do the whole thing in one pitch! I would recommend skipping the bolted anchors because they are quite a ways left of the line plus the climbing is very easy from the bolts to the roof.
By cPay
From: Riverdale, NY
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

for those that have onsighted this climb, good job! pretty touch to read where to pull the last roof, and its one spot! all the chalk all over the place is incredibly misleading, I traversed to the right too far, on a large flake jug that should NOT be touched, that thing flexed/cracked. Hanging out, locking off trying to find where to pull, definitely made this feel hard, not so hard for 10b once you know that move :)
btw, I lead this with a 60m rope and and built my own anchor at the low point of the fixed one, and lowered to the ground just to the end of my rope.
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 13, 2016

Ugh, the thin moves off the deck on this one are spooky. If you misread the route like I did it's easy to pitch off from about 12'. Fortunately my partner was a HERO and caught me. (The climbing was subsequently aborted to get stitches for his lacerated face from the gear on my harness.)

Personally I wouldn't get on this one again without some really detailed beta on how to do the thin start and/or a really solid pad and spotter.
By Steven Amter
Jul 19, 2016

I climbed this route on May 19th, 2016 with John Steiger. I thought it was a great route, but for me the name of the climb was eerily appropriate.

On the last move, I strained/slightly tore a hamstring tendon behind my knee. At the crux you go through a series of tiered overhangs to a last move that is long reach. After grabbing the second to last bucket, I threw my right leg up high into a horizontal crack for toe-heel lock/hook and pulled while cranking a pull-up into a lockoff and long reach. I must have had my knee a bit too twisted because as I elevated I felt something behind my knee go "twang" (It felt as if someone plucked a bass string behind my leg). That was all she wrote - weekend-long Gunks trip cut a day short!

I've never had such an injury before, but based on internet research such heel-hook derived injuries are actually fairly common. My advice is if you are strong on lock-offs, you probably won't need the foot cam.

(Two months later, my leg is 80% healed and I am back in the gym. But avoiding heel hooks for now.)

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