REI Community
Lower Blair I
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bachelor Party T 
Bro Proj, The T 
Community Norms T 
Cory's Diagonal  T 
Crack of the Dudac  T 
Crack of the Dudac Direct T 
Creature Features  T 
Electric Gypsy Moth S 
Fall of the Golden Boy T 
In Between T 
Le Petit Arbre T 
Le Petit Contreforce T 
Nick's Loose Flake Variation T 
Public Enemy T 
Raised On Robbery T 
Social Mores T 
Spike It T 
Thief, The S 
Three Roofs T 
Two Skinny J's T 
When You're Strange T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fall of the Golden Boy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Julian Poush, Shane Miller, Fall 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 17, 2010

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


Fall of the Golden Boy shares the first 15 feet of slabby climbing with its neighbor Two Skinny Js. Fall of the Golden Boy splits off to the right in an overhanging hand and finger crack in a left-facing dihedral. After 20 feet, it then rejoins Two Skinny Js for easy face climbing to hands and offwidth in a flared, right-facing dihedral.

This route is named for a massive whipper that Shane caught on Dillingham Blues in Fremont Canyon. His friend the "Golden Boy" whipped huge, ripped out all his gear, factored two on the anchor and hit the water.


Single set of cams from 00 Metolius up to #5 Camalot, with doubles in hands and fingers. 1 Standard set of stoppers. 3-5 single length runners.


Fall of the Golden follows a crack system on the far right side of the south east face of Blair 1. to the left of it is Two Skinny J's, Crack of the Dudac, and Crack of the Dudac Direct (in that order). A bit further to the left is located Another Cryptorchid, Your Nuts, Scrotum, and East Face Direct (in that order, these climbs are all listed in the Robert Kelman guide). Fall of the Golden Boy is the last continuous good looking crack system on the right side of the wall.

Build an anchor. Walk off.

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