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(02) The Slab Wall
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Fall From Grace S 
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Fall From Grace 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Timy Fairfield
Page Views: 593
Submitted By: Monomaniac on May 16, 2007

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Description 

This controversial route has two things going for it: its hard, and its not a bolted crack. Unfortunately, both of these "virtues" are a direct result of the route's major downside, the fact that it is nearly entirely manufactured.

However, if you can rationalize the tactics used to establish this route, you will be entertained by the movement, and challenged by the difficulty.

Begin up the easy choss-band, climbing into a steeply overhanging right-facing dihedral capped by a small roof. Reach your left hand up into a drilled "bowling ball" grip, and chuck for the big hold at the bottom of the crack feature. Ascend this feature with ease and shake as needed. A lowering ring at the end of this amounts to the end of the 12b 'variation' to this route. Above this point, things get hard.

Follow sequential two-finger pockets (the first is natural, the rest are chipped) to the highest, tweakiest pocket and the last clip before the V8 crux. Work up and left into the extremely steep dihedral, hike up your feet, and huck for the cheese grater sloper above. A few easier moves lead to the anchor.

Many of the pockets on this route seap after heavy rains.

Location 

Furthest right (S) route on the Slab Wall. Identifiable as a steeply overhanging, right-facing dihedral.

Protection 

Bolts, 2 BA


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