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Falkor is the Route in Red.
|Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!! MORE INFO >>>|
The crux is controlling the pain from the holds, aside from that, it is thin crimps with great feet on a 30 degree overhanging wall on excellent granite.
On the back(north) side of the Phantasia/Nothing Boulder. Start on the low jug make a reach up left to a crimp rail and then up right to a sidepull crimp and then gun right for the lip and finish straight up.
Two pads and a spotter. Cram one pad in the trench unfolded and place one on the slab/rock behind. The fall is generally straight back because of the angle. The spotter should just have to direct you to the pad.