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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Daniel Garman and Alex Garhart
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,211
Submitted By: Alex Garhart on Mar 19, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: View of Falcon hand variation being climbed

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This fun route climbs flared splitter hands to a ledge where you have the option of continuing up the direct route which widens from 4" to a squeeze with a corner change (the FA took the direct route) or stepping left a couple feet and climbing a thin hands/hands splitter that starts ~7 feet above the ledge. It's a big reach to the hands splitter but a fun variation.


Left of "Finer 39'r" maybe 100 yards. The line is obvious from the approach trail.


BD #2-#6 for the direct line, more 2.5-3.0" for the variation. 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Falcon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View of lower Falcon being climbed
View of lower Falcon being climbed
Rock Climbing Photo: The direct route
BETA PHOTO: The direct route

Comments on Falcon Add Comment
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By delly84
From: Golden, Co
May 15, 2015

once you're at the top of the new (i'm assuming) trail, you're about 20ft right of Finer 39'r. there is sort of a trail left and down but once you get to the start of Finer 39'r (a roof crack, that's hard to miss, currently a plaque with Finer 39'r on it), you still have a bit of bushwhacking along the cliff around two walls to get to falcon. 100yards left of Finer 39'r is about right, but you can't really see it from the new trail.
By Mike Zasadzien
Nov 27, 2016

Route is pretty far out there from where the new trail meets the wall. Traverse left for what could be a few hundred feet or more. There will be one slightly significant downward scramble past a tree and that should put you right around the base which consists of blocks.

Fair warning for the hand-crack variation: Once you get on the ledge and move leftward, you have a horrifying sandy dishing slab under the hand crack, and the crack terminates right about 7' from where the dish ends at the wall. There's a little crimp and a smooth pocket to help you sink a .75 and/or 1 cam in with your finger tips into the beginning of the crack to protect this traverse [I used a black #5 metolius cam]. I'm 5'9" for reference and could barely reach and make this committing move; and had to aid on the cam to get higher to get my hands into the crack. Great route otherwise, but this bit certainly was not trivial for me. I recommend getting a good view of what I'm talking about by walking a few yards left of the route and looking up to see around the ledge.
By Keane Anderson
Apr 20, 2017

Funny story on this one. We ascended a "route" that matches the description (handcrack on the left, OW on the right leaving from a ledge) and seems to be in approximately the correct location (a ways left of the trail.) Upon getting to the top of the decent climbing, we discovered there were no anchors and were forced to ascend some awful choss and make a double rope rappel from a tree (bush?) We were later told the actual Falcon is likely even further left of where we were.

Be sure to look at the photos of the route carefully, guidebook doesn't have much info.

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