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Fake Right - Go Left 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Shawn Bethune, Denise Hamel and Greg Hughes
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 72
Submitted By: gph on Mar 13, 2015

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Description 

Climb straight up behind the tree on lower angle rock in the shallow right facing corner slightly to the right of Magic X. Climb steep cracks and flakes aiming for an obvious wide crack that slants to the right. Gain the narrow buttress above and follow a crack along the left edge. Exciting climbing up the crack and a few face moves leads to the Magic X anchor. Beautiful climbing, excellent gear and thrilling exposure.

Location 

Start on a crack riddled slab below a large spruce tree that has the sign "X Wall" on it. Climb up to the tree. Rap the route and remember to tie knots in your rope. A 60 meter rope will get you to the ground with some easy downclimbing.

Protection 

A #4 or #5 will allow for higher gear placements in the wide crack but is not necessary. A 70 meter rope is needed to get you back to your packs.


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