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Faithful Friend 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Euan Cameron, 31st August 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Getting to grips with the crux sequence on Faithfu...

Description 

Starting from the lowest point of the face climb directly up to a good stance at the 3rd bolt. Now the fun begins. Climb the slab above via some thin moves to gain the better holds on the quartz dike.

Continue directly above the dike to finish just left of the large pine tree.

Location 

Middle of the main slab

Protection 

7 bolts, double ring anchors (equipped with Mussy Hooks).


Photos of Faithful Friend Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunshine Wall Main Slab Topo
BETA PHOTO: Sunshine Wall Main Slab Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pop to the quartz dike
Crux pop to the quartz dike
Rock Climbing Photo: On the first ascent of Faithful Friend, just after...
On the first ascent of Faithful Friend, just after...

Comments on Faithful Friend Add Comment
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By James Barnett
From: Bishop Ca.
Oct 1, 2013

Easy down low with some good moves up higher on great rock
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Oct 16, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

fun climb with the 10b crux between 4th n 5th bolt. fun delicate traverse to the epic dyke.
By old5ten
From: Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
Aug 21, 2014
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Maybe I didn't climb this quite right?! Dyno didn't work for me, so I resorted to a high-step/match w. left foot/hand. Crux bolt is in a great spot.
By kenr
Aug 10, 2015

Sharon could not handle any climbing at the 10b level, but she found lots of fun climbing around 5.6 maybe 5.7 in the lower two-thirds. She was on Top-Rope which we'd set up after first climhing "Little Gem", so she just lowered off when she reached the crux.

Top-Rope: If you want to have multiple people climb it on Top-Rope after leading this route, I suggest bringing a couple of long slings ... because the two-bolt anchor for leading is set above away from the edge of the steeper rock, so you'd have more rope drag over the edge if Top-Rope directy off the two-bolt anchor for leading.

We instead used as our TR anchor the obvious large tree with bare twin trunks (because closer to the edge, and convenient to use to help with TR on other climbs). We attached a long sling off that tree. Plus a directional on one of the bolts near the top of this route.
By BAd
Jul 28, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Made the mistake of TR'ing this first. Should have led it. At first I thought the climbing went straight up at the crux, and that looked--for me--impossible. So thrash on TR, right? Well, got up there on the TR, realized there was no way to make it go straight up, so "cheated" going out left to the dike! Great moves, fun, flashed it. Will go back. Love that phat dyke.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 28, 2016

Yeah, I agree. The funny thing is, the photo here makes it look like he did just go straight up at the crux. This seemed ridiculously hard for the grade to me, and I also traversed left until I could move up to the dike. I wonder if the hold has broken?

Rock Climbing Photo: Crux pop to the quartz dike
Crux pop to the quartz dike
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Mammoth Lakes
Jul 29, 2016

The original way is straight up. No holds have broken although they are small.

Definitely a couple grades easier to head left to reach the dike.

The original is 10b slab.
By Todd Townsend
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 29, 2016

OK, if you say so. I'll have to try it that way again the next time I'm up there.

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