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Fais-moi mal Johnny 

Fais-moi mal Johnny 

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A R

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V6 Font: 7A R [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 458
Submitted By: Colin R on Sep 29, 2013

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Description 

Start on a low sloping rail down in a cave. Using some marginal slopers and a high right heel hook bust up right hand to a crimp rail and match it. Now do another even bigger left-hand dyno off the crimp rail to a really nice left hand flake hold way up high. Traverse left a bit and work your way up the lip to a gaston hold that feels kind of sketchy to get to (you are above a bad landing here btw). From here you can high step your right foot and top out.

Location 

Uphill from Louise Classique. Start on a low sloping rail down in a cave.

Protection 

3-4 pads and an attentive spotter. The boulder behind you is a serious obstacle and you could easily slam your head or back into it without an attentive spotter. The top-out is a bit spicy too and your spotter needs to be very attentive there.


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By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jun 6, 2014

I changed the danger grade from PG-13 to R. I probably should have done this earlier. The reason being I just heard about two people who fell on the upper moves where there is a shit landing and really messed themselves up - one apparently broke their back. Yikes! I recommend working those upper moves in isolation first to get it dialed (DONT FALL) then try the complete line.

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