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Unsorted Routes:

Fairy Tales 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
Page Views: 2,173
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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James Webster starting up the splitter section

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


Climb good fingers (yellow aliens) with no feet to desperate tip locks (tight greens) below the anchor.


Between Sig Saur and Coyne Crack Simulator


6 Yellow aliens, 3 green

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By m-earle
From: USA
Apr 10, 2009

I've seen this called "fairy tales," and that the FA MAY have been done by Peewee, from Quebec.
By Drewsky
Jul 1, 2009

This climb made a couple of my fingers numb for a week or two. Otherwise, it's actually pretty cool.
By Bryan Gilmore
From: New England
Feb 12, 2011

I aided up, put the anchor in and then one-hung it and never went back. On a separate trip I told Pee Wee about it and he went and sent it. So, yes FA is Pee Wee and he named it Fairy Tales.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jun 20, 2013

This route should be moved to between new routes Cocked and Desert Eagle.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2014

If you're like me and challenged when it comes to alien sizes I was able to get orange(tight) and yellow TCUs and .3s and .4s.

This climb is a lot like Sig Sauer but without all the nice footholds.
By slim
Oct 20, 2014

moved accordingly, thanks for the heads up.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Moab, UT
Oct 30, 2015
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

That last body length really wants to fuck your pinkys up. Great splitter!
By Sean Nelb
From: Indian Creek
Nov 1, 2016

Great climbing on good rock. There's enough pods that one could place some 0.5 Camalots or larger and make due without as many 0.4's. Once I launched into the 0.3 crack with no feet my fingers quickly went numb.
By Sam Feuerborn
Nov 28, 2016

It was bolted by some nice fellow and passed to JP for the FA.

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