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Unsorted Routes:

Fairy Tales 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
Page Views: 2,016
Submitted By: Tank Evans on Mar 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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James Webster starting up the splitter section

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Climb good fingers (yellow aliens) with no feet to desperate tip locks (tight greens) below the anchor.


Between Sig Saur and Coyne Crack Simulator


6 Yellow aliens, 3 green

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By m-earle
From: USA
Apr 10, 2009

I've seen this called "fairy tales," and that the FA MAY have been done by Peewee, from Quebec.
By Drewsky
Jul 1, 2009

This climb made a couple of my fingers numb for a week or two. Otherwise, it's actually pretty cool.
By Bryan Gilmore
From: New England
Feb 12, 2011

I aided up, put the anchor in and then one-hung it and never went back. On a separate trip I told Pee Wee about it and he went and sent it. So, yes FA is Pee Wee and he named it Fairy Tales.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Jun 20, 2013

This route should be moved to between new routes Cocked and Desert Eagle.
By Kevin Kent
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 20, 2014

If you're like me and challenged when it comes to alien sizes I was able to get orange(tight) and yellow TCUs and .3s and .4s.

This climb is a lot like Sig Sauer but without all the nice footholds.
By slim
Oct 20, 2014

moved accordingly, thanks for the heads up.
By Aaron Livingston
From: Yosemite Valley, CA
Oct 30, 2015
rating: 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c

That last body length really wants to fuck your pinkys up. Great splitter!
By Sean Nelb
From: Indian Creek
Nov 1, 2016

Great climbing on good rock. There's enough pods that one could place some 0.5 Camalots or larger and make due without as many 0.4's. Once I launched into the 0.3 crack with no feet my fingers quickly went numb.
By Sam Feuerborn
From: Durango, CO
Nov 28, 2016

It was bolted by some nice fellow and passed to JP for the FA.