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L to R R to L Alpha
Chaps My Hide S 
Creepy Hollow S 
Face To Face S 
Freakshow S 
Hole In One S 
Mojo Nation S 
My China Girl S 
Nickel Slots S 
Problematic S 
Shall Remain Nameless S 
Sky's The Limit S 
Third Input S 

Fairway Rock Climbing 

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Location: 34.66437, -116.97769 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,915
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: duh on Feb 5, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Located on the hillside to the south of and facing the south face of Raven Rocks, this northeast-facing crag is shady most of the day and a good bet for warm weather cragging. Routes here are mostly high quality With a range of difficulty from 5.9 to 5.12, something for everybody.

Good routes on this crag include, Sky's The Limit (5.10b), Mojo Nation, Hole In One, Face To Face (5.11d) and Freakshow (5.12a).

Getting There 

From the south face of Raven Rocks follow the trail that heads south and uphill into the east canyon, past The Shreen Crag and Fantasy Island.

Climbing Season

Weather station 16.4 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Fairway

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Fairway:
Sky's The Limit   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Mojo Nation   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hole In One   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 95'   
Face To Face   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Freakshow   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Fairway

Featured Route For Fairway
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay on the start of Hole In One (5.11a). photo by ...

Hole In One 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  California : High Desert : ... : Fairway
Start up the obvious shallow weakness, in the middle of the wall, past 3 bolts, then hand traverse to the left on a shelf and up and left thru huecos to the lip of the roof. Turn the lip on thin holds and face climb for another 50' to the chain anchors. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Fairway Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay on "Face To Face" (5.11d). photo by ...
Jay on "Face To Face" (5.11d). photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fairway. Photo by Blitzo.
Fairway. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Fairway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
May 11, 2007
We counted four routes on the right side of the canyon on the way up to the Fairway routes listed here and in the SoCal Sport Guide. The first two were on lower angled rock at the bottom of the canyon and looked like something I'd like to try. Any info available on these?
Also, the route just right of China Girl (Name Unknown in the Guide; not listed on this site) is rated 10a but seemed harder to us. Any comments on this? Perhaps it was just too continuously steep for us JT senior citizen types.
And also, there is an anchor visible on top of the next crag up and left from the existing Fairway routes, at the top of a very easy looking face, but no bolts on the face yet. What are the plans for this?
Thanks for any info anyone might be able to share.
By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
May 11, 2007
Most likely the routes you passed were either The Shreen area (located at the bottom of the canyon) or Fantasy Island which is the area directly below the Fairway. I know that the guidebook shows the Shreen as above Fantasy Island but it is wrong. The first area encountered on the trail is the Shreen, followed by Fantasy Island and lastly The Fairway.
By Art Morimitsu
From: Huntington Beach, Ca
May 14, 2007
I strongly suspect those routes are on The Shreen, Shreen (10b) on the left and Story Of J (10a) on the right
By jt512
May 15, 2007
The two routes on low-angle rock below Fantasy Island are 10a-ish. They climb like J Tree slabs, minus the friction.

By Jan Tarculas
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 10, 2010
After calculating 60 meters, turns about to be 196 feet. This climb is 95 feet x 2 = 190 feet. So with 60 meter rope, I will only have about 6 feet of play. Would it be recommended to use 70M or 60M okay?

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